Not just eyes, but ears and occasionally a mouth that opens wide in an extravagant yawn. They belong to some of the hundreds of hippopotamuses that make their home here in the tranquil waters of Liwonde National Park. This little-known game reserve is one of the best reasons to visit the African nation of Malawi, a sliver of land bordered by Tanzania, Mozambique, and Zambia.
Although this tiny country is overshadowed by its better-known neighbors, Malawi is attracting more and more animal lovers. You can certainly find the so-called "big five" here - lions, leopards, elephants, buffaloes, and rhinoceroses - but national parks such as Liwonde are popular among those who aren't looking for a traditional safari.
"My wife and I were looking for something different," a British visitor told me on our trip. "We didn't want to check off the same animals you can see everywhere else."
Rare Sightings in the Bush
You aren't likely to spot lions in Liwonde, but you may see endangered cats such as the serval, which has a reddish-brown coat covered with black spots. On a recent game drive, visitors to the reserve were entranced by the sight of one of these nocturnal creatures pouncing on a rat. Not far away, a slinky relative of the mongoose called a genet was searching for prey.
Night drives, forbidden in many of Africa's national parks, are a highlight of a visit to Liwonde. In addition to large herds of impalas, reedbucks, and waterbucks, you may come across hungry hippos that have come out of the water to forage for food. If you're lucky, a baby might be trailing behind.
Another rare treat is a walking safari. A guide takes you into a secluded part of the reserve where a herd of black rhinoceroses has been relocated from South Africa's Kruger National Park. Following the animals' trail often takes hours. It's the only way, however, to see these shy creatures, which are frightened away by the sound of vehicles.
Sleeping with the Hippos
The heart of Liwonde is the Shire River, which runs nearly the length of the reserve. If you're staying at Mvuu Wilderness Lodge, the only accommodation in the reserve, you're probably going to spend a lot of time on the river and in the surrounding marshes. An early morning trip in one of the lodge's hand-hewn wooden boats often passes a herd of elephants that has come down to the river to cool off. Crocodiles are frequently spotted on the banks, lounging about in the sun.
Mvuu is the Chichewa word for hippopotamus, so it's no surprise that they make a frequent appearance at the camp. As you relax on your private veranda overlooking the lagoon, you'll often see them giving you the eye. The sound of these enormous creatures chomping on vegetation may be the last sound before you drift off to sleep.
Essentials
Getting There
Air Malawi flies between Johannesburg and Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, three times a week and between London and Lilongwe once a week.
South African Airways flies between Johannesburg and Lilongwe three times a week and between Johannesburg and Blantyre, in southern Malawi not far from the reserve, twice a week.
British Airways flies between London and Lilongwe once a week.
When to Go
The best time to visit Malawi is in the dry season from May through October, especially in September and October. The rainy season runs from November through April.
Where to Stay
The Mvuu Wilderness Lodge is the only place to stay inside the reserve. Each of the five spacious tents is comfortably furnished with two double beds, a writing desk, and cozy chairs facing the lagoon. Each has a private bath.
What It Will Cost
Rates at Mvuu Wilderness Lodge start at $230 per person per night. This includes lodging, meals, game drives, and transportation to the camp.
Contact
The Regional Tourism Organization of Southern Africa, better known as RETOSA, has plenty of information about Malawi and other countries in the region.
By Mark Sullivan
|
|
|
|
No comments:
Post a Comment