Is Nobu Matsuhisa a genius? Shakespeare was a genius, but can any chef -- even one who conjures up Peruvian-inspired Japanese cuisine that garners international accolades -- be considered a genius? And can any meal possibly be worth $150 a person for dinner, drinks, and tip? Or is the hype for Nobu just another instance of Americans heaping praise with reckless abandon?
I had to know, so I set out to do some research -- at my favorite message boards on the Net and at Nobu, chef Matsuhisa's celebrated New York restaurant.
The Man
Reading up on Matsuhisa, I found out that he was raised in Tokyo, trained as a sushi chef, and began experimenting with South American ingredients during a stint in Peru. He left there to open a restaurant in Anchorage, of all places.
With the wind chill, Anchorage can hit 60 below in winter, and in summer the endless hours of sun can drive you crazy. Suddenly, Matsuhisa seemed unconventional, a risk-taker.
Then the Anchorage place burned down. Not to be deterred, Nobu moved to Beverly Hills, where in 1987 he opened the immensely successful Matsuhisa. Since then, he has opened branches in Aspen, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, London, Malibu, and Tokyo.
But the opening that had the greatest impact was in 1994, when Matsuhisa joined forces with actor Robert De Niro and restaurateur Drew Nieporent to start up Nobu in New York City's intensely hip, industrial-chic neighborhood of TriBeCa.
The Hype
Food-obsessed New Yorkers, celebrities, and even other chefs rave about Nobu's cuisine. My friends who had tried it, loved it. Those who hadn't were still trying to get reservations. Since I grew up in India, I'm always looking for thoughtfully spiced and aromatic food, bursting with fresh, differentiated flavors. Maybe Nobu's as good as they say, I thought. Maybe it's worth it. So when, out of the blue, a friend asked whether I wanted to splurge on Nobu, I jumped at the suggestion. (Be warned: we booked a reservation three weeks in advance for a Tuesday night, so call at least a month ahead to be safe.)
Tuesday night -- three weeks later -- we walked into a whimsically elegant room -- best described as woodsy organic with urban-architectural flourishes. We were seated by the window, where I settled into a velvety lime-green banquette that looked out into a wittily designed room containing sawed-off trunks of birch trees blossoming into something more like two-by-fours than branches, and a sleek wall of pebbles curving against the room's centerpiece: a sushi bar lit from within.
Two Ways to Order
There are two ways to order a meal at Nobu: choosing individual portions or opting for the omakase, or chef's special. Take a risk and try the omakase for an inspired blend of raw and cooked fish.
The price tag starts at $70 per person and goes up to $200. The more you spend, the more luxurious and rare the ingredients. A hundred dollars each bought us eight courses, most of which were first-rate.
The Review
Toro tartare -- rare tuna topped with osetra caviar and infused with palate-cleansing wasabi sauce -- launched the meal. The nervy, wild flavors that followed convinced me that Nobu is indeed a genius. Kumamoto oysters, crowned with vividly orange sea urchin and sprinkled with fried leeks, ginger, sesame seed, and nutty shavings of crispy, melt-in-your-mouth seaweed, were deliriously good. The dramatic and complex orchestration of flavors and textures was, well, Shakespearean. It was the kind of thing that might have made Lady Macbeth a little nicer.
Our less lyrical third course was finely sculpted aji (dried mackerel) ceviche -- straightforward but respectable. Kampachi sashimi salad followed. Don't expect to find this intensely buttery fish, a member of the yellowtail family, in your average sushi joint. A fun touch: Curved like a footbridge over the kampachi was a dried-and-fried sardine chip.
Our waitress seemed to take no vicarious pleasure in our dining, but served each course impassively, slightly irked at what probably seemed like two overcurious women who had never seen fish before. Not surprising, because we asked too many questions and wrote down all her responses on a piece of paper as she was talking. We did this with each course and sometimes asked for more details. But the food more than made up for her matter-of-fact style.
Branzino -- Mediterranean sea bass -- perfectly absorbed the explosive flavors and colors of the tart pomegranate-and-mango salsa pooling around it. We sopped up everything we could and picked at the fruit with our chopsticks.
We crescendoed into our sixth course with Nobu's signature dish, black cod with miso. This ecstasy-inducing cut of sweet broiled black cod with miso sauce was topped with a slab of rich, gamey foie gras. The presentation was striking: The cod was served on a dark-green shiso leaf with a magenta flourish of pickled onion. Next came, ho-hum, only sushi. No sweet-or-spicy tricks, no bells and whistles. That said, the immensely fine, if unimaginative, sushi included toro, shad, kampachi, white salmon, and snapper.
The finale was a warm chocolate soufflé served in a bento box (a small lacquered container in which Japanese food is often served). Topped with a scoop of green-tea ice cream and drizzled with a pungent, vanilla-flavored sauce, the dessert had an appealing spiciness. The warm-cold trick worked, as did the blending of hard and soft textures. The delicate, well-balanced spices cut the sweetness and added some intrigue.
Was it worth it? I'll put it this way: If Nobu had been around in Shakespeare's England, to be or not to be might not be the question, nor even to eat or not to eat. It might be: "How soon can I get another reservation?"
Nobu. 105 Hudson St., off Franklin St., tel. 212/219-0500; 212/219-8095 for same-day reservations. fax 212/219-1441. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.
Read more...
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Discovery Cove: Worth the Pretty Penny
When was the last time you took the kids to a theme park and left feeling more relaxed than when you arrived?
No, seriously.
The very idea seems to defy some law of nature. But after a day with my family in Orlando's Discovery Cove, I not only felt relaxed -- I felt downright refreshed.
Who knew?
Not your traditional "ride until your innards are hanging out" kind of place (there is, in fact, not a single ride in the whole park), Discovery Cove is a natural-wonder adventure land. On 33 acres, the man-made tropical paradise comes complete with white sand, water, "reef," and wildlife. No passive-amusement mecca, the park lets you swim for your thrills, exploring underwater sights, bobbing next to dolphins, and visiting with other lovable critters.
Is the Price Right?
Discovery Cove doesn't come cheap. The price tag is about $200 per person, per day (there is an option in the $100 range, but it doesn't include the dolphin swim).
Before you choke on your dolphin-safe tuna sandwich, let's do some math.
In addition to admission to the park, visitors get a seven-day pass to SeaWorld, next door. Realistically, no one's going to spend a whole week with Shamu. But assuming you'll visit SeaWorld for at least an afternoon, this brings the price of Discovery Cove nearer to $150.
The final tab is relatively reasonable when you consider that dolphin programs at other locations will cost you that much alone. Here, the romp with Flipper is included in the price. These rates are subject to change, but the savings ratio should remain relatively the same.
Still, by any calculation, a day at Discovery Cove is expensive. For my family, it came down to what we call the "Principle of Vacation Returns." We could have forgone the dolphin swim, but to pay a hefty amount anyway and miss the activity we wanted to do most seemed like a poor return on our investment.
What You Get
So what exactly do you get for your money?
First and foremost: dolphins. Dolphin interactions are short (about 90 minutes, not all of it in the water) but memorable. To swim with the dolphins, children must be age six or older (there are no other age restrictions inside the park). You'll start with an orientation and then split up into small groups of four to six for the meeting with one of the bottlenose beauties. Guests learn the signals for a few tricks, play around a bit, and submit to the requisite splash.
Fun as it is, it's important to note that this is not a free swim à la The Blue Lagoon, but rather a carefully controlled meeting. Still, the smiles on my daughters' faces spoke volumes of their level of enjoyment. Our only regret: It went by too quickly.
And dolphins are but one of the resident species. Swim alongside colorful fish, meet up with stingrays (the slimy guys will suck food right out of your hand, a prospect that may sound repulsive but is actually quite fascinating and fun), and explore underwater "shipwrecks" and grottoes. We spent hours lazing along the balmy Tropical River and diving sunken "ruins." Venturing through a cave and under a waterfall took us to an aviary where exotic birds perched on our shoulders and ate right out of our hands.
Extra Bangs for the Buck
Discovery Cove also has its share of amenities.
Crowd control. The park limits entrance to 1,000 people per day. On paper, this might seem like the equivalent of New York's Herald Square during the Thanksgiving Day Parade. But over 33 acres, that translates to a little more than 33 people per acre. And in theme-park terms, that further translates to having an island to yourself.
Apart from the overall tranquility, there's a practical side: During my entire eight hours in the park, I did not wait in line once: not for food, water, lounge chairs, equipment -- not even the ladies' room.
Equipment. Everything you need is included in the price, beginning with wet suits, which are optional, but highly recommended: Water temperature is maintained for water animals, not humans. That means it's cold, particularly if you're standing still for a long time (as in the dolphin pool). Even on the hottest day, you'll do well to be fully insulated.
Also included in the price are snorkels (which are yours to take home), masks (bring your own to ensure a good fit), swim vests (required for all visitors), towels, beach umbrellas, and lockers.
Lunch -- a tasty and plentiful meal that is far better than typical theme-park pickings -- is also included in the tab. The park will even throw in some sunscreen for good measure.
Safety. Far from permitting you to snorkel in the endless and unpredictable wild, Discovery Cove offers the safety of sheltered, man-made pools complete with lifeguards. The setup smartly restricts your child's ability to swim off and eliminates the worry of strong currents and unwanted wildlife visitors.
Final Thoughts
A few other things to keep in mind.
Bring extra cash. Like any amusement park, Discovery Cove is expert at milking you for souvenirs. Professionals snap photos of you and the dolphins (you won't be allowed to bring a camera of your own, but you may have a family photographer standing on dry land nearby) and display them for your review on computer screens. Photos run about $15 each. Trust me: You won't leave without buying at least one.
Get an early start. To get the most out of the day -- and your money's worth -- you'll want to arrive early and spend a full six to eight hours at the park. An early start also means you'll have your pick of dolphin-swim times; we liked the middle of the day, right after lunch, when we'd experienced other areas of the park but weren't yet tired out.
Finally, don't forget to spend at least a little time stretched out on a chaise, enjoying the park's quiet atmosphere. You can't help but relax. Read more...
No, seriously.
The very idea seems to defy some law of nature. But after a day with my family in Orlando's Discovery Cove, I not only felt relaxed -- I felt downright refreshed.
Who knew?
Not your traditional "ride until your innards are hanging out" kind of place (there is, in fact, not a single ride in the whole park), Discovery Cove is a natural-wonder adventure land. On 33 acres, the man-made tropical paradise comes complete with white sand, water, "reef," and wildlife. No passive-amusement mecca, the park lets you swim for your thrills, exploring underwater sights, bobbing next to dolphins, and visiting with other lovable critters.
Is the Price Right?
Discovery Cove doesn't come cheap. The price tag is about $200 per person, per day (there is an option in the $100 range, but it doesn't include the dolphin swim).
Before you choke on your dolphin-safe tuna sandwich, let's do some math.
In addition to admission to the park, visitors get a seven-day pass to SeaWorld, next door. Realistically, no one's going to spend a whole week with Shamu. But assuming you'll visit SeaWorld for at least an afternoon, this brings the price of Discovery Cove nearer to $150.
The final tab is relatively reasonable when you consider that dolphin programs at other locations will cost you that much alone. Here, the romp with Flipper is included in the price. These rates are subject to change, but the savings ratio should remain relatively the same.
Still, by any calculation, a day at Discovery Cove is expensive. For my family, it came down to what we call the "Principle of Vacation Returns." We could have forgone the dolphin swim, but to pay a hefty amount anyway and miss the activity we wanted to do most seemed like a poor return on our investment.
What You Get
So what exactly do you get for your money?
First and foremost: dolphins. Dolphin interactions are short (about 90 minutes, not all of it in the water) but memorable. To swim with the dolphins, children must be age six or older (there are no other age restrictions inside the park). You'll start with an orientation and then split up into small groups of four to six for the meeting with one of the bottlenose beauties. Guests learn the signals for a few tricks, play around a bit, and submit to the requisite splash.
Fun as it is, it's important to note that this is not a free swim à la The Blue Lagoon, but rather a carefully controlled meeting. Still, the smiles on my daughters' faces spoke volumes of their level of enjoyment. Our only regret: It went by too quickly.
And dolphins are but one of the resident species. Swim alongside colorful fish, meet up with stingrays (the slimy guys will suck food right out of your hand, a prospect that may sound repulsive but is actually quite fascinating and fun), and explore underwater "shipwrecks" and grottoes. We spent hours lazing along the balmy Tropical River and diving sunken "ruins." Venturing through a cave and under a waterfall took us to an aviary where exotic birds perched on our shoulders and ate right out of our hands.
Extra Bangs for the Buck
Discovery Cove also has its share of amenities.
Crowd control. The park limits entrance to 1,000 people per day. On paper, this might seem like the equivalent of New York's Herald Square during the Thanksgiving Day Parade. But over 33 acres, that translates to a little more than 33 people per acre. And in theme-park terms, that further translates to having an island to yourself.
Apart from the overall tranquility, there's a practical side: During my entire eight hours in the park, I did not wait in line once: not for food, water, lounge chairs, equipment -- not even the ladies' room.
Equipment. Everything you need is included in the price, beginning with wet suits, which are optional, but highly recommended: Water temperature is maintained for water animals, not humans. That means it's cold, particularly if you're standing still for a long time (as in the dolphin pool). Even on the hottest day, you'll do well to be fully insulated.
Also included in the price are snorkels (which are yours to take home), masks (bring your own to ensure a good fit), swim vests (required for all visitors), towels, beach umbrellas, and lockers.
Lunch -- a tasty and plentiful meal that is far better than typical theme-park pickings -- is also included in the tab. The park will even throw in some sunscreen for good measure.
Safety. Far from permitting you to snorkel in the endless and unpredictable wild, Discovery Cove offers the safety of sheltered, man-made pools complete with lifeguards. The setup smartly restricts your child's ability to swim off and eliminates the worry of strong currents and unwanted wildlife visitors.
Final Thoughts
A few other things to keep in mind.
Bring extra cash. Like any amusement park, Discovery Cove is expert at milking you for souvenirs. Professionals snap photos of you and the dolphins (you won't be allowed to bring a camera of your own, but you may have a family photographer standing on dry land nearby) and display them for your review on computer screens. Photos run about $15 each. Trust me: You won't leave without buying at least one.
Get an early start. To get the most out of the day -- and your money's worth -- you'll want to arrive early and spend a full six to eight hours at the park. An early start also means you'll have your pick of dolphin-swim times; we liked the middle of the day, right after lunch, when we'd experienced other areas of the park but weren't yet tired out.
Finally, don't forget to spend at least a little time stretched out on a chaise, enjoying the park's quiet atmosphere. You can't help but relax. Read more...
Friday, December 26, 2008
Online Reservations
Expedia provides the booking engine for the Web site. Below are links to it and other booking services for airline tickets, hotels, rental cars, vacations, and cruises, and to sites where you can make bids or participate in auctions. Explanations and tips for using each service follow the links.
Some online booking services allow you to check prices without becoming a member, but at most of the ones listed here you'll have to become a member to book. You'll be asked to give your name, address, phone number, e-mail address and other info and select a log-in name and password. If you're not comfortable using your credit card for purchases online, you can call in the card number to a toll-free (in the United States and Canada) number. For flights you book, the services encourage you to accept an electronic ticket (also known as an e-ticket), but you can ask for a paper ticket to be mailed to you for an additional charge.
Some online booking agents make certain fares---usually the cheapest ones---available to dues-paying members only. Sometimes the fare in question is still a bargain even after you add in the cost of the yearly membership, but make sure you get exactly what was advertised: Some companies have been known to pull a "bait-and-switch" routine by offering you a certain fare if you pay the membership fee, then telling you that your fare is "sold out" once they get your money. By all means, demand an immediate refund of your membership fee if you find this to be the case or believe the fare was misrepresented in any way. Read more...
Some online booking services allow you to check prices without becoming a member, but at most of the ones listed here you'll have to become a member to book. You'll be asked to give your name, address, phone number, e-mail address and other info and select a log-in name and password. If you're not comfortable using your credit card for purchases online, you can call in the card number to a toll-free (in the United States and Canada) number. For flights you book, the services encourage you to accept an electronic ticket (also known as an e-ticket), but you can ask for a paper ticket to be mailed to you for an additional charge.
Some online booking agents make certain fares---usually the cheapest ones---available to dues-paying members only. Sometimes the fare in question is still a bargain even after you add in the cost of the yearly membership, but make sure you get exactly what was advertised: Some companies have been known to pull a "bait-and-switch" routine by offering you a certain fare if you pay the membership fee, then telling you that your fare is "sold out" once they get your money. By all means, demand an immediate refund of your membership fee if you find this to be the case or believe the fare was misrepresented in any way. Read more...
Thursday, December 25, 2008
Selected Booking Services
Expedia.com
Bestfares.com
CheapTickets.com
LastMinuteTravel.com
Lowestfare.com
OneTravel.com
Orbitz.com
Qixo.com
Travelocity.com
Expedia allows you to book flights on any major airline for specific departure and arrival times. In some cases you can hold your reservation for up to 24 hours before making your purchase. If your itinerary isn't the cheapest one available for the times you choose, you'll be shown some less expensive alternatives. You can also make a lower-than-list-price offer for flights on the same day. The conditions are essentially the same as those for Priceline.com (see Make a Bid, below).
Expedia's Hotel Wizard allows you to check prices for thousands of lodgings worldwide and book reservations at most of the establishments listed. You can also rent cars and book cruises and other vacations at Expedia.
Bestfares collects little-known offers from major airlines, hotels, rental-car agencies, and cruise lines and lists them on its Web site. Some of the best offers are available to members only, so you'll have to decide for yourself whether the fare listed is still a bargain after you add in the cost of subscribing to the site.
Cheaptickets lists low fares for flights, rental cars, hotels, cruises, and packages. You can use the site to research fares and availability, but call the 800 number to make sure that the fare you found is, indeed, the lowest available.
LastMinuteTravel.com displays offers from various providers for airline tickets, hotel rooms, rental cars, events, cruises, and vacations. As the company's name suggests, many of the deals are late-breaking specials. You don't make your reservations on this site but rather are connected directly with the provider for booking.
Lowestfare.com, which uses the Sabre system for airline bookings, has deals on flights, hotel rooms, car rentals, and cruise and other vacations.
OneTravel.com is a good option for low airfares. You can also book hotel rooms, rent cars, and check availability in many price ranges and locations.
Orbitz, the discount Internet travel site founded by five major American airlines---American, Continental, Delta, Northwest and United--- to compete with Expedia and Travelocity, offers many Web-only specials. In addition to airline tickets, it also provides rental cars, lodging, cruises, and vacation packages.
Qixo searches 20 top travel Web sites and lets you decide which itinerary and price are the best. You can purchase your ticket on this site, or directly from the vendors.
Travelocity has an easy-to-understand system for booking flights and checking arrival and departure times. After two visits to the site, you'll be asked to become a member even to check flights. You can also book hotels, rental cars, and cruises and other vacations at Travelocity.
Note: You can also book airline tickets, hotel rooms, rental cars, and other products and services directly through a company's Web site -- United Airlines, Sheraton, or Hertz, for example -- which sometimes offer special promotional fares not available over the phone or at the counter.
If you know the carriers that fly between your departure city and destination, check their sites for special deals. On the sites of most hotel chains and independent properties you'll find a "special offers" button to click on, and this is usually the case with the major rental-car companies as well. Read more...
Bestfares.com
CheapTickets.com
LastMinuteTravel.com
Lowestfare.com
OneTravel.com
Orbitz.com
Qixo.com
Travelocity.com
Expedia allows you to book flights on any major airline for specific departure and arrival times. In some cases you can hold your reservation for up to 24 hours before making your purchase. If your itinerary isn't the cheapest one available for the times you choose, you'll be shown some less expensive alternatives. You can also make a lower-than-list-price offer for flights on the same day. The conditions are essentially the same as those for Priceline.com (see Make a Bid, below).
Expedia's Hotel Wizard allows you to check prices for thousands of lodgings worldwide and book reservations at most of the establishments listed. You can also rent cars and book cruises and other vacations at Expedia.
Bestfares collects little-known offers from major airlines, hotels, rental-car agencies, and cruise lines and lists them on its Web site. Some of the best offers are available to members only, so you'll have to decide for yourself whether the fare listed is still a bargain after you add in the cost of subscribing to the site.
Cheaptickets lists low fares for flights, rental cars, hotels, cruises, and packages. You can use the site to research fares and availability, but call the 800 number to make sure that the fare you found is, indeed, the lowest available.
LastMinuteTravel.com displays offers from various providers for airline tickets, hotel rooms, rental cars, events, cruises, and vacations. As the company's name suggests, many of the deals are late-breaking specials. You don't make your reservations on this site but rather are connected directly with the provider for booking.
Lowestfare.com, which uses the Sabre system for airline bookings, has deals on flights, hotel rooms, car rentals, and cruise and other vacations.
OneTravel.com is a good option for low airfares. You can also book hotel rooms, rent cars, and check availability in many price ranges and locations.
Orbitz, the discount Internet travel site founded by five major American airlines---American, Continental, Delta, Northwest and United--- to compete with Expedia and Travelocity, offers many Web-only specials. In addition to airline tickets, it also provides rental cars, lodging, cruises, and vacation packages.
Qixo searches 20 top travel Web sites and lets you decide which itinerary and price are the best. You can purchase your ticket on this site, or directly from the vendors.
Travelocity has an easy-to-understand system for booking flights and checking arrival and departure times. After two visits to the site, you'll be asked to become a member even to check flights. You can also book hotels, rental cars, and cruises and other vacations at Travelocity.
Note: You can also book airline tickets, hotel rooms, rental cars, and other products and services directly through a company's Web site -- United Airlines, Sheraton, or Hertz, for example -- which sometimes offer special promotional fares not available over the phone or at the counter.
If you know the carriers that fly between your departure city and destination, check their sites for special deals. On the sites of most hotel chains and independent properties you'll find a "special offers" button to click on, and this is usually the case with the major rental-car companies as well. Read more...
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