Shaped continually by ocean currents, this windswept land of sandy beaches and dunes has an amazing natural beauty. Everyone comes for the seaside, yet Cape Cod's crimson cranberry bogs, birch and beech forests, grassy meadows, freshwater ponds, and marshlands are just as splendid. Local history is fascinating; whale-watching offers an exhilarating encounter with the natural world; bike trails lace the landscape; shops display everything from antiques to fashions to kitsch; and restaurants cook up seafood as fresh as it comes, as well as fine international cuisine.
Separated from the Massachusetts mainland by two heavily trafficked bridges over the Cape Cod Canal, the Cape is always likened in shape to an outstretched human arm bent at the elbow, its Provincetown fist turned back toward the mainland. The open Atlantic Ocean pounds the Cape's eastern coast, and Nantucket Sound washes the southern shore.
The Upper Cape -- think "upper arm" -- encompasses Bourne, Falmouth, Mashpee, and Sandwich. The Mid Cape includes Barnstable, Yarmouth, and Dennis. The Lower Cape covers Brewster, Harwich, Chatham, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro, and Provincetown. The Outer Cape, as in "outer reaches," is the end of the Lower Cape; technically it includes only Wellfleet, Truro, and Provincetown.
Station yourself in one town and take excursions from there, or stay in a string of towns as you make your way from one end of the Cape to the other. Be prepared for summer crowds, however, or come off-season, when many beaches are dream material for solitary walkers and life returns to a small-town hum.
Read more...
Saturday, January 31, 2009
South Africa: Rainbow Nation
My family first came to South Africa from England three decades ago. Earlier, Nigeria had been home for seven years. And as clichéd as it might sound, once Africa gets into your blood, it's hard to deny her pull. Now it was South Africa's sunshine and opportunities that beckoned.
We were immigrants, equipped only with an old car, lots of enthusiasm, and three young children -- "Not enough," the white Afrikaner Immigration official growled after we landed at Cape Town in those now seemingly long-ago apartheid days. "We need more white children." Undaunted, we set off north through the Karoo Desert for Johannesburg -- Egoli, the "place of gold," in Zulu -- blissfully ignorant about the complex, stunningly beautiful country that we would settle in.
Today, in spite of South Africa's ongoing problem with crime and violence, we still wouldn't choose to live anywhere else. There's no room or time for Old World boredom or complacency when you can live in a country where people debate in 11 different official languages -- Archbishop Desmond Tutu christened us "the Rainbow Nation" for our racial and cultural diversity and the name has stuck -- and that has the world's newest and most liberal constitution. It's difficult to imagine a country more vibrant and alive than this.
The whole world knows of our infamous past. Our ground-breaking Truth and Reconciliation Commission continues to ensure that we don't forget it. Although so much heartbreak, trauma, and truth, and so many lies have been revealed at the public hearings, most of us firmly believe that to know the past is part of the process of understanding it, coming to terms with it, and moving on. Amazingly, there's little bitterness or racial conflict -- a lead set by our first democratically elected president, Nelson Mandela, one of the 20th century's most respected leaders.
His successor, seasoned diplomat Thabo Mbeki, although lacking Mandela's charisma, is well respected at home and abroad and seems intent on keeping South Africa afloat economically, politically, and morally. He has taken a strong stand against corruption, aiming for "discipline, hard work and effectiveness, not popularity." The public comforts itself with the knowledge that when yet another corruption scandal erupts, at least these days the corruption -- although not dealt with as firmly and swiftly as it would like -- is "transparent." Transparency is one of the buzz words of the new government -- it is determined not to copy the cloak-and-dagger "dirty tricks" tactics of the former Nationalist governments.
So what's the mood in today's country? South Africans who think positively know that the honeymoon is over and there's a long road ahead but that good things will come to those who wait. Unfortunately, thousands of white professionals have emigrated, because of perceived fears of South Africa's becoming yet another stereotypical African country spiraling into a potential one-party state, a fear of a lack of job opportunities for their children because of the government's rigorous affirmative action program, and fears for their children's educational prospects in government schools bursting at the seams.
Those of us who have stayed take comfort in the burgeoning economy and remind ourselves that we live in the newest, most liberal democracy in the world -- and the one with the best weather in the world.
Immigrants, legal and illegal, flock in from neighboring countries and flood both the squatter camps and the diminishing job market. Although black South Africans have seen sweeping changes in educational, employment, and housing opportunities, massive unemployment fuels the rampant crime figures. Everybody now knows somebody who has been a victim of hijacking, mugging, burglary, or other violence of some kind. People agree that the government of the African National Congress, in for a second four-year term with a sweeping majority, isn't doing too badly. And when you visit the rural areas and the former black townships and see the new clinics, the rows of small neat houses, and the uniformed kids making their way to school, you feel a burst of pride. Okay, we're not making enough changes fast enough, but we're getting there.
Blacks and whites mix freely in public places, and the only apartheid now is that between the haves and the have-nots -- as with anywhere else in the world. We're a noisy, vociferous lot who argue our opinions wherever and whenever anybody will listen -- opinions not hidden or submerged by hypocrisy or warm, fuzzy euphemisms but discussed openly and up-front in the media, in schools and universities, in the home, and wherever people are gathered together. Change is still the keynote of the new South Africa. And energy, buzz, vibrations (both good and bad) permeate the air. Friends of mine, back from two years in Canada, are delighted to be home. In South Africa, they claim, you'll never be bored, there's no chance here of the bland leading the bland.
As a foreigner in South Africa, you'll meet with tremendous hospitality. A friend of mine from Boston, visiting the Kimberley Mine Museum, ended up spending a few days in this historic and fascinating city with a local schoolmaster and his family. Talk, talk, talk to everyone you can -- South Africans love to talk about their country. Other than Ireland, I can't think of a place where people are so keen and ready to discuss their country, warts and all, with such honesty and heady enthusiasm. Sure, we know we have problems, but we are the Rainbow Nation and proud of it.
So welcome, then, to one of the most beautiful and diverse countries on earth, where sea, mountains, rolling plains, mighty rivers, deep gorges and the bush, with its big game, more than 800 birds, and amazing biodiversity will hook you from day one. Your first visit certainly won't be your last.
Kate Turkinton is a South African journalist and broadcaster. She is managing editor of Marung and Flamingo, the in-flight magazines of Air Botswana and Air Namibia.
The preceding essay was excerpted from Fodor's Southern Africa.
By Kate Turkington Read more...
We were immigrants, equipped only with an old car, lots of enthusiasm, and three young children -- "Not enough," the white Afrikaner Immigration official growled after we landed at Cape Town in those now seemingly long-ago apartheid days. "We need more white children." Undaunted, we set off north through the Karoo Desert for Johannesburg -- Egoli, the "place of gold," in Zulu -- blissfully ignorant about the complex, stunningly beautiful country that we would settle in.
Today, in spite of South Africa's ongoing problem with crime and violence, we still wouldn't choose to live anywhere else. There's no room or time for Old World boredom or complacency when you can live in a country where people debate in 11 different official languages -- Archbishop Desmond Tutu christened us "the Rainbow Nation" for our racial and cultural diversity and the name has stuck -- and that has the world's newest and most liberal constitution. It's difficult to imagine a country more vibrant and alive than this.
The whole world knows of our infamous past. Our ground-breaking Truth and Reconciliation Commission continues to ensure that we don't forget it. Although so much heartbreak, trauma, and truth, and so many lies have been revealed at the public hearings, most of us firmly believe that to know the past is part of the process of understanding it, coming to terms with it, and moving on. Amazingly, there's little bitterness or racial conflict -- a lead set by our first democratically elected president, Nelson Mandela, one of the 20th century's most respected leaders.
His successor, seasoned diplomat Thabo Mbeki, although lacking Mandela's charisma, is well respected at home and abroad and seems intent on keeping South Africa afloat economically, politically, and morally. He has taken a strong stand against corruption, aiming for "discipline, hard work and effectiveness, not popularity." The public comforts itself with the knowledge that when yet another corruption scandal erupts, at least these days the corruption -- although not dealt with as firmly and swiftly as it would like -- is "transparent." Transparency is one of the buzz words of the new government -- it is determined not to copy the cloak-and-dagger "dirty tricks" tactics of the former Nationalist governments.
So what's the mood in today's country? South Africans who think positively know that the honeymoon is over and there's a long road ahead but that good things will come to those who wait. Unfortunately, thousands of white professionals have emigrated, because of perceived fears of South Africa's becoming yet another stereotypical African country spiraling into a potential one-party state, a fear of a lack of job opportunities for their children because of the government's rigorous affirmative action program, and fears for their children's educational prospects in government schools bursting at the seams.
Those of us who have stayed take comfort in the burgeoning economy and remind ourselves that we live in the newest, most liberal democracy in the world -- and the one with the best weather in the world.
Immigrants, legal and illegal, flock in from neighboring countries and flood both the squatter camps and the diminishing job market. Although black South Africans have seen sweeping changes in educational, employment, and housing opportunities, massive unemployment fuels the rampant crime figures. Everybody now knows somebody who has been a victim of hijacking, mugging, burglary, or other violence of some kind. People agree that the government of the African National Congress, in for a second four-year term with a sweeping majority, isn't doing too badly. And when you visit the rural areas and the former black townships and see the new clinics, the rows of small neat houses, and the uniformed kids making their way to school, you feel a burst of pride. Okay, we're not making enough changes fast enough, but we're getting there.
Blacks and whites mix freely in public places, and the only apartheid now is that between the haves and the have-nots -- as with anywhere else in the world. We're a noisy, vociferous lot who argue our opinions wherever and whenever anybody will listen -- opinions not hidden or submerged by hypocrisy or warm, fuzzy euphemisms but discussed openly and up-front in the media, in schools and universities, in the home, and wherever people are gathered together. Change is still the keynote of the new South Africa. And energy, buzz, vibrations (both good and bad) permeate the air. Friends of mine, back from two years in Canada, are delighted to be home. In South Africa, they claim, you'll never be bored, there's no chance here of the bland leading the bland.
As a foreigner in South Africa, you'll meet with tremendous hospitality. A friend of mine from Boston, visiting the Kimberley Mine Museum, ended up spending a few days in this historic and fascinating city with a local schoolmaster and his family. Talk, talk, talk to everyone you can -- South Africans love to talk about their country. Other than Ireland, I can't think of a place where people are so keen and ready to discuss their country, warts and all, with such honesty and heady enthusiasm. Sure, we know we have problems, but we are the Rainbow Nation and proud of it.
So welcome, then, to one of the most beautiful and diverse countries on earth, where sea, mountains, rolling plains, mighty rivers, deep gorges and the bush, with its big game, more than 800 birds, and amazing biodiversity will hook you from day one. Your first visit certainly won't be your last.
Kate Turkinton is a South African journalist and broadcaster. She is managing editor of Marung and Flamingo, the in-flight magazines of Air Botswana and Air Namibia.
The preceding essay was excerpted from Fodor's Southern Africa.
By Kate Turkington Read more...
Moving Moments as Visitors Bear Witness at Ground Zero
When it was standing, the World Trade Center drew thousands of visitors a day to its observation deck towering 110 stories over Lower Manhattan.
Today, another observation deck, hardly one story tall, allows visitors a view that was unimaginable before September 11, 2001: a vacant spot in the Manhattan skyline where two of the world's tallest buildings once stood.
Part memorial, part demolition site, and part tourist attraction, the 16-acre tract known as Ground Zero is best viewed from a new temporary wooden structure at the corner of Fulton Street and Broadway. The city offers a limited number of free tickets to the platform, and the same NYPD officers who once kept onlookers at bay on the streets now perform crowd control for the nearly 7,000 daily visitors who ascend the platform to grieve, remember lost loved ones, or simply witness the scene of the most destructive terrorist act in modern U.S. history.
Private Funds for Public Grieving
The deck, designed and constructed using private funds, was erected in early 2002 on the south side of St. Paul's Chapel, a 250-year-old structure that emerged unscathed when the Twin Towers collapsed. The ramp leading up to the viewing area abuts a cemetery behind the chapel, setting an appropriately somber tone for a scene that elicits gasps, tears, and utter disbelief.
"I'm not going to take any pictures," says Andreas Delgato, a 22-year-old Colombian visiting New York early this year with his parents. "I mean, it's not anything I want to remember in pictures, but it is something I just had to see for myself."
Clean-up and recovery efforts have progressed so quickly there is little left to see. The smoldering piles of steel and concrete from two hundred floors of offices have been hauled away, leaving a huge open pit where heavy machinery unearths the remains of the towers' subterranean floors.
From all outward appearances, the area could be the construction site of a new mall or office complex, but intermittent halts in the digging are sobering reminders that there is more than steel and concrete buried here: hundreds of bodies remain entombed in the rubble.
Most visitors don't come to see anything in particular. Rather, they reflect quietly, leave flowers, and sign their names to brief messages, a practice started by the platform's first visitor, former New York City Mayor Rudy Giuliani.
New Yorker Suzanna Sayerson, who lost three friends in the disaster, has visited the site a half-dozen times. The visits comfort her, and she has been moved by the public outpouring of emotion.
"I'm just drawn back here because I'm so touched by the expressions of love," she says on a blustery January day that sends clouds of dust and sand swirling over the platform. Suzanna's own note, like the others scratched on wooden railings and walls, focuses on those who perished rather than on those responsible for their demise.
"God bless you," she writes in a bold cursive style, unsuccessfully holding back tears as her most recent visit comes to a close. "I love you all."
Sanctity Versus Safety
Initially, the city was criticized by some of the victims' families for officially sanctioning public visits to the area, but for New York City's Office of Emergency Management, it was a public safety issue.
"I understand the families' concerns, but our objective was to alleviate the overcrowding that was occurring on the sidewalks around the recovery area," says Francis E. McCarton, the Office of Emergency Management's Deputy Commissioner of Public Information. "I think we have succeeded in maintaining the sanctity of the area, and now people don't have to stand for hours out in the cold waiting to pay their respects at the site."
McCarton says that plans for the construction of three more platforms have been put on hold.
"The landscape is changing from day to day -- even from hour to hour at times -- so it's difficult to say what things will be like next month, or even next week. We're just trying to do the most appropriate thing for the moment at hand."
# Ground Zero Ticket Information Tickets are free and available on a first-come, first-served basis. They are good for half-hour time blocks and are given out in strict chronological order. You cannot choose a specific time to visit.
# A maximum of two tickets per person is allowed; 250 tickets are distributed for each half-hour block between noon and 8 PM the same day or between 9 AM and 11:30 AM the following morning.
# Tickets are available at the South Street Seaport Museum's ticket booth at Fulton and South Streets on Pier 16. The average wait for a ticket on a busy day is less than 20 minutes.
# The ticket booth is open from 11 AM until 6 PM or until no more tickets are available for that day.
# To prevent overcrowding on the sidewalks around the viewing area, visitors should not arrive at the platform more than 15 minutes before their allotted time.
# Police officers stationed at the viewing platform will ensure that only ticket holders are admitted and that every ticket holder is given sufficient time on the platform.
# Tickets are nontransferable and not for resale.
# For more information call 212/732-7678.
By David Downing Read more...
Today, another observation deck, hardly one story tall, allows visitors a view that was unimaginable before September 11, 2001: a vacant spot in the Manhattan skyline where two of the world's tallest buildings once stood.
Part memorial, part demolition site, and part tourist attraction, the 16-acre tract known as Ground Zero is best viewed from a new temporary wooden structure at the corner of Fulton Street and Broadway. The city offers a limited number of free tickets to the platform, and the same NYPD officers who once kept onlookers at bay on the streets now perform crowd control for the nearly 7,000 daily visitors who ascend the platform to grieve, remember lost loved ones, or simply witness the scene of the most destructive terrorist act in modern U.S. history.
Private Funds for Public Grieving
The deck, designed and constructed using private funds, was erected in early 2002 on the south side of St. Paul's Chapel, a 250-year-old structure that emerged unscathed when the Twin Towers collapsed. The ramp leading up to the viewing area abuts a cemetery behind the chapel, setting an appropriately somber tone for a scene that elicits gasps, tears, and utter disbelief.
"I'm not going to take any pictures," says Andreas Delgato, a 22-year-old Colombian visiting New York early this year with his parents. "I mean, it's not anything I want to remember in pictures, but it is something I just had to see for myself."
Clean-up and recovery efforts have progressed so quickly there is little left to see. The smoldering piles of steel and concrete from two hundred floors of offices have been hauled away, leaving a huge open pit where heavy machinery unearths the remains of the towers' subterranean floors.
From all outward appearances, the area could be the construction site of a new mall or office complex, but intermittent halts in the digging are sobering reminders that there is more than steel and concrete buried here: hundreds of bodies remain entombed in the rubble.
Most visitors don't come to see anything in particular. Rather, they reflect quietly, leave flowers, and sign their names to brief messages, a practice started by the platform's first visitor, former New York City Mayor Rudy Giuliani.
New Yorker Suzanna Sayerson, who lost three friends in the disaster, has visited the site a half-dozen times. The visits comfort her, and she has been moved by the public outpouring of emotion.
"I'm just drawn back here because I'm so touched by the expressions of love," she says on a blustery January day that sends clouds of dust and sand swirling over the platform. Suzanna's own note, like the others scratched on wooden railings and walls, focuses on those who perished rather than on those responsible for their demise.
"God bless you," she writes in a bold cursive style, unsuccessfully holding back tears as her most recent visit comes to a close. "I love you all."
Sanctity Versus Safety
Initially, the city was criticized by some of the victims' families for officially sanctioning public visits to the area, but for New York City's Office of Emergency Management, it was a public safety issue.
"I understand the families' concerns, but our objective was to alleviate the overcrowding that was occurring on the sidewalks around the recovery area," says Francis E. McCarton, the Office of Emergency Management's Deputy Commissioner of Public Information. "I think we have succeeded in maintaining the sanctity of the area, and now people don't have to stand for hours out in the cold waiting to pay their respects at the site."
McCarton says that plans for the construction of three more platforms have been put on hold.
"The landscape is changing from day to day -- even from hour to hour at times -- so it's difficult to say what things will be like next month, or even next week. We're just trying to do the most appropriate thing for the moment at hand."
# Ground Zero Ticket Information Tickets are free and available on a first-come, first-served basis. They are good for half-hour time blocks and are given out in strict chronological order. You cannot choose a specific time to visit.
# A maximum of two tickets per person is allowed; 250 tickets are distributed for each half-hour block between noon and 8 PM the same day or between 9 AM and 11:30 AM the following morning.
# Tickets are available at the South Street Seaport Museum's ticket booth at Fulton and South Streets on Pier 16. The average wait for a ticket on a busy day is less than 20 minutes.
# The ticket booth is open from 11 AM until 6 PM or until no more tickets are available for that day.
# To prevent overcrowding on the sidewalks around the viewing area, visitors should not arrive at the platform more than 15 minutes before their allotted time.
# Police officers stationed at the viewing platform will ensure that only ticket holders are admitted and that every ticket holder is given sufficient time on the platform.
# Tickets are nontransferable and not for resale.
# For more information call 212/732-7678.
By David Downing Read more...
Friday, January 30, 2009
Uncovering Easter Island's Mysteries
As I scrambled down the cliff, I could hear the distant sound of waves crashing against the rocks. But it wasn't until my water bottle fell off my backpack and landed inches from the cliff's edge that I realized how steep a drop it was to the churning ocean hundreds of feet below. I peered over the edge and still couldn't see the bottom.
I was in good hands, though. My guide, Josie Nahoe Mulloy, was the granddaughter of the archaeologist who made many important discoveries on Easter Island.
She was taking me to Ana O Keke, the legendary Cave of the Virgins, a sight few visitors to this tiny island in the South Pacific ever get to see.
Adventurous Spirit Essential
An adventurous spirit is essential for visiting Easter Island. It's possible to sign up for a package tour, but you'd hit only a handful of the sights. To experience the island fully, hire a private guide and see what everyone else is missing. Better yet, rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle and head out on your own. Even in January and February at the height of high season you can find secluded spots where you won't see another soul.
Ana O Keke is one of those spots. Difficult to locate and even trickier to access, it's where the ancient peoples kept young women awaiting their weddings.
Shockingly small -- we had to crawl on our hands and knees to get inside -- the cave contains simple petroglyphs of fish and flowers, probably carved by the frightened girls sequestered here. The carvings are beautiful, and a bit sad.
Plenty to See
Easter Island is most famous for its moais -- the giant stone heads found all around the coast. But even if the island held not a single moai, there would still be plenty to see. Ana O Keke contains dozens of well-preserved petroglyphs, as do the cliffs near the ancient village of Orongo. Inside the cave of Ana Kai Tangata are colorful paintings of birds in flight. And many of Easter Island's more than 300 ahus, or burial chambers, are worth exploring.
The isolated island -- 2,300 miles off the coast of Chile, which claimed it in 1888 -- was uninhabited until about 1,500 years ago. That's when, according to local legend, King Hotu Matu'a and his extended family landed on a beach on the northern shore. Exactly where they came from remains a matter of discussion. The Norwegian archaeologist Thor Heyerdahl, who thought the island's fine masonry resembled that of the Incas, hypothesized that the first people on Easter Island traveled from South America. To prove the journey was possible, Heyerdahl set sail from Peru in his balsa-wood boat Kon-Tiki. Most archaeologists, though, citing similarities in language and culture, believe the original inhabitants were of Polynesian descent.
When he landed here on Easter Sunday in 1722, Dutch explorer Jacob Roggeveen, the first European to encounter the island, gave it the name most people recognize (locals call it Rapa Nui). Roggeveen found hundreds of "stupendous figures" that had been "erected in so masterly a manner." Yet when Britain's Captain James Cook anchored here in 1774, many of the moais had been toppled from their foundations. What happened during those 50 years? Archaeologists believe that overpopulation and overdevelopment devastated the island. Warfare broke out between clans, who knocked down the moais of others.
Impressive Sites
Many archaeological sites have been restored, more than a few of them by my guide's grandfather, William Mulloy. Among the most impressive is Ahu Akiva, where seven of the stoic stone figures look out to sea. Another is Ahu Nau Nau, where five moais were buried in the sand at Anakena Beach for centuries, leaving them extraordinarily well preserved. These are topped by pukaos, reddish stone cylinders thought to represent hair.
You needn't travel far to see moais. The first ones you'll encounter are in the center of Hanga Roa, the town where the island's 3,500 residents live. A short walk up the coast in the ancient ceremonial center of Tahai you'll come across a handful more, including (at Ahu Kote Riku) the only moai on the island to have its gleaming white coral eyes restored. The coastline faces west, so this is a great place to view blazing yellow sunsets.
Ranu Raraku, a quarry in a long-extinct volcano, is the island's most fascinating site, and it remains pretty much as it was left hundreds of years ago. (This is a popular destination for tour buses, but arrive early or late in the day and you'll likely have it to yourself.) Researchers have counted 397 moais -- nearly half of those found on the island -- at Ranu Raraku. The first ones visible line the outer rim, but the crater itself contains scores more. They gaze out expectantly, as though awaiting a move to their final resting place.
When to Go
Easter Island explodes with music and dancing during the Tapati Rapa Nui festival, which takes place in January and February. December and March are also busy months for tourism. But with temperatures averaging about 68°F all year there's no reason not to visit at other times. If you do, even the most popular archaeological sites will likely be uncrowded.
Mark Sullivan wrote the Easter Island chapter of Fodor's Chile. He also edited that book, as well as Fodor's South America and upCLOSE Central America.
By Mark Sullivan Read more...
I was in good hands, though. My guide, Josie Nahoe Mulloy, was the granddaughter of the archaeologist who made many important discoveries on Easter Island.
She was taking me to Ana O Keke, the legendary Cave of the Virgins, a sight few visitors to this tiny island in the South Pacific ever get to see.
Adventurous Spirit Essential
An adventurous spirit is essential for visiting Easter Island. It's possible to sign up for a package tour, but you'd hit only a handful of the sights. To experience the island fully, hire a private guide and see what everyone else is missing. Better yet, rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle and head out on your own. Even in January and February at the height of high season you can find secluded spots where you won't see another soul.
Ana O Keke is one of those spots. Difficult to locate and even trickier to access, it's where the ancient peoples kept young women awaiting their weddings.
Shockingly small -- we had to crawl on our hands and knees to get inside -- the cave contains simple petroglyphs of fish and flowers, probably carved by the frightened girls sequestered here. The carvings are beautiful, and a bit sad.
Plenty to See
Easter Island is most famous for its moais -- the giant stone heads found all around the coast. But even if the island held not a single moai, there would still be plenty to see. Ana O Keke contains dozens of well-preserved petroglyphs, as do the cliffs near the ancient village of Orongo. Inside the cave of Ana Kai Tangata are colorful paintings of birds in flight. And many of Easter Island's more than 300 ahus, or burial chambers, are worth exploring.
The isolated island -- 2,300 miles off the coast of Chile, which claimed it in 1888 -- was uninhabited until about 1,500 years ago. That's when, according to local legend, King Hotu Matu'a and his extended family landed on a beach on the northern shore. Exactly where they came from remains a matter of discussion. The Norwegian archaeologist Thor Heyerdahl, who thought the island's fine masonry resembled that of the Incas, hypothesized that the first people on Easter Island traveled from South America. To prove the journey was possible, Heyerdahl set sail from Peru in his balsa-wood boat Kon-Tiki. Most archaeologists, though, citing similarities in language and culture, believe the original inhabitants were of Polynesian descent.
When he landed here on Easter Sunday in 1722, Dutch explorer Jacob Roggeveen, the first European to encounter the island, gave it the name most people recognize (locals call it Rapa Nui). Roggeveen found hundreds of "stupendous figures" that had been "erected in so masterly a manner." Yet when Britain's Captain James Cook anchored here in 1774, many of the moais had been toppled from their foundations. What happened during those 50 years? Archaeologists believe that overpopulation and overdevelopment devastated the island. Warfare broke out between clans, who knocked down the moais of others.
Impressive Sites
Many archaeological sites have been restored, more than a few of them by my guide's grandfather, William Mulloy. Among the most impressive is Ahu Akiva, where seven of the stoic stone figures look out to sea. Another is Ahu Nau Nau, where five moais were buried in the sand at Anakena Beach for centuries, leaving them extraordinarily well preserved. These are topped by pukaos, reddish stone cylinders thought to represent hair.
You needn't travel far to see moais. The first ones you'll encounter are in the center of Hanga Roa, the town where the island's 3,500 residents live. A short walk up the coast in the ancient ceremonial center of Tahai you'll come across a handful more, including (at Ahu Kote Riku) the only moai on the island to have its gleaming white coral eyes restored. The coastline faces west, so this is a great place to view blazing yellow sunsets.
Ranu Raraku, a quarry in a long-extinct volcano, is the island's most fascinating site, and it remains pretty much as it was left hundreds of years ago. (This is a popular destination for tour buses, but arrive early or late in the day and you'll likely have it to yourself.) Researchers have counted 397 moais -- nearly half of those found on the island -- at Ranu Raraku. The first ones visible line the outer rim, but the crater itself contains scores more. They gaze out expectantly, as though awaiting a move to their final resting place.
When to Go
Easter Island explodes with music and dancing during the Tapati Rapa Nui festival, which takes place in January and February. December and March are also busy months for tourism. But with temperatures averaging about 68°F all year there's no reason not to visit at other times. If you do, even the most popular archaeological sites will likely be uncrowded.
Mark Sullivan wrote the Easter Island chapter of Fodor's Chile. He also edited that book, as well as Fodor's South America and upCLOSE Central America.
By Mark Sullivan Read more...
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Taking the Plunge in Cyprus
A wealthy businessman I know has a bowling alley in his house, a ridiculous luxury I've never known him to use. It's always seemed more of a status symbol to me, an accessory that cements his reputation as someone rich enough to have his own bowling alley.
I've always felt the same way about upscale resorts whose suites include little personal "plunge pools." Sure, they look great in magazine spreads, but I've never understood the idea of taking a dip in an unswimmable dollop of water within view of your next-door neighbor, especially at a posh resort where immense heated pools overlook the grappa-clear -- and perfectly swimmable -- waters of the eastern Mediterranean.
Such is the story at Anassa, the Thanos Hotel Group's $60 million gem of a flagship property that is putting the island of Cyprus back on the map of "it" places in the Mediterranean. The tourist-friendly Greek side of the republic (as opposed to the Turkish-occupied northern region), where Anassa sits, is the Greek Isles without the ferry hassles, Ibiza without the Eurokids on ecstasy. The area's warm, dry Middle Eastern climate makes it a year-round getaway.
"We like it because it is so close to Germany and it's safer than Israel these days," says Ralph, a fortysomething German developer who lounges on the resort's private beach on a mid-November day as the temperature approaches 80 degrees. "Besides," he adds with the casual tone of the well traveled, "we've been everywhere else."
Later that day, to my surprise, I see Ralph swimming in the Mediterranean, zipping off in the direction of North Africa with the tenacity of a channel swimmer. Even he has no use for a plunge pool.
Turtles, Spice, and the Goddess of Love
Anassa -- the name means "queen" in English -- sits on a bluff overlooking her ruggedly handsome empire, the Akamas Peninsula. The Cypriot government restricts development here, not because Akamas Peninsula is the birthplace of some great, mythological entity -- indeed, Aphrodite's alleged birthplace two hours east of here is off limits to developers -- but because the area is the nesting ground of endangered sea turtles. A jeep tour of the dry, hilly, sparsely wooded peninsula proves that, like Robert Redford, it's more handsome from a distance. But the resort guide, a native Cypriot, knows where the true beauty lies.
He drives to a particularly barren bluff where a scraggly bush clings to life, tears off two small sprigs of green, and holds them to my nose. The smell is overwhelming, instantly intoxicating, and strangely familiar.
"Junipere," he says in heavily accented English, carefully placing a sample of the shrub in my hand. He walks over to another bush and performs the same trick. This time it is a spicy, clean scent that makes me instantly hungry. "Oregan-oh," he proclaims. The rest of the tour is spent as if sniffing our way through a well-stocked wild-spice rack, and when we pass a herd of goats pre-seasoning themselves as they graze on the herbs, my growling stomach betrays my carnivorous intentions.
Seaweed Wraps, Feral Cats, and Whitewash
Other excursions include trips to the ancient coastal town of Pafos, where in the 1960s a local farmer stumbled upon a series of intricate mosaics buried by an eons-old earthquake, and to the tiny mountain village of Lofou, where narrow, pedestrian-only thoroughfares and a complete absence of litter lend the place a strangely Disneyesque patina. But this is not Disneyland. From the Phoenicians to the Romans to the British, who still maintain two huge military bases on the island, the trail of civilization goes back 10,000 years.
Truth be told, few guests take the time to explore the past. Most prefer to remain in the present to enjoy an algae wrap at the Thalassa Spa, dine at one of four restaurants, swim up to the infinity-edge pool bar, play tennis or one of myriad water sports, or stroll the landscaped, herb-filled grounds where feral cats live among the olive trees.
Anassa is so smartly designed that you never get the impression that you're at a 177-room resort. The lingering impression is not one of a massive hotel, but of gorgeous details: patches of polished marble, splashes of whitewashed walls framed by sprays of bougainvillea, wrought-iron balconies, lush gardens, mosaic-tile fountains. And, yes, plunge pools.
Taking the Plunge
By the last night of my stay, the only function my lilliputian pool has served has been as a water dish for the kitties that visit in the night. I decide to make my move.
The pool is as brisk as the Mediterranean -- too cool for simply lounging, especially at night. The New Yorker in me is ashamed that I would even consider making such an inane request in light of recent events, so when I call the front desk and ask if my plunge pool could be made warmer I try to borrow Ralph's semi-bored resort tone. To my chagrin, I sound dopey, not worldly. But I am determined to make use of this splash before I leave. It is my own little bowling alley, a useless status symbol I'm going to expose for what it is.
When I return several hours later from a gratifying dinner at Basilico, Anassa's grottolike signature restaurant, I am surprised to see steam swirling about the gently glowing surface. Two plush towels sit neatly folded on the chaise.
I pour a Scotch from the minibar, slip into my suit, and settle comfortably on the steps of the pool. The water is a perfect temperature. The breeze stirs and I catch the fleeting scent of an exotic herb. As I turn to float on my back, a timer turns off the pool light. It's midnight, and with the lights off the night sky is exactly two colors, black and white.
This is not bad, I think to myself, quietly reassessing my stance on plunge pools. When a distant splash and oh-so-faint giggle escape from somewhere in the night, I finally get it: Here I am at the birthplace of Aphrodite, the Goddess of Love, and not one but two towels were put out for me.
Of course, this silly pool isn't big enough for one person to enjoy.
It's small enough for two.
By David Downing
David Downing, a freelance writer and frequent Fodors.com contributor based in New York City, adds this advice: never go solo to Aphrodite's birthplace Read more...
I've always felt the same way about upscale resorts whose suites include little personal "plunge pools." Sure, they look great in magazine spreads, but I've never understood the idea of taking a dip in an unswimmable dollop of water within view of your next-door neighbor, especially at a posh resort where immense heated pools overlook the grappa-clear -- and perfectly swimmable -- waters of the eastern Mediterranean.
Such is the story at Anassa, the Thanos Hotel Group's $60 million gem of a flagship property that is putting the island of Cyprus back on the map of "it" places in the Mediterranean. The tourist-friendly Greek side of the republic (as opposed to the Turkish-occupied northern region), where Anassa sits, is the Greek Isles without the ferry hassles, Ibiza without the Eurokids on ecstasy. The area's warm, dry Middle Eastern climate makes it a year-round getaway.
"We like it because it is so close to Germany and it's safer than Israel these days," says Ralph, a fortysomething German developer who lounges on the resort's private beach on a mid-November day as the temperature approaches 80 degrees. "Besides," he adds with the casual tone of the well traveled, "we've been everywhere else."
Later that day, to my surprise, I see Ralph swimming in the Mediterranean, zipping off in the direction of North Africa with the tenacity of a channel swimmer. Even he has no use for a plunge pool.
Turtles, Spice, and the Goddess of Love
Anassa -- the name means "queen" in English -- sits on a bluff overlooking her ruggedly handsome empire, the Akamas Peninsula. The Cypriot government restricts development here, not because Akamas Peninsula is the birthplace of some great, mythological entity -- indeed, Aphrodite's alleged birthplace two hours east of here is off limits to developers -- but because the area is the nesting ground of endangered sea turtles. A jeep tour of the dry, hilly, sparsely wooded peninsula proves that, like Robert Redford, it's more handsome from a distance. But the resort guide, a native Cypriot, knows where the true beauty lies.
He drives to a particularly barren bluff where a scraggly bush clings to life, tears off two small sprigs of green, and holds them to my nose. The smell is overwhelming, instantly intoxicating, and strangely familiar.
"Junipere," he says in heavily accented English, carefully placing a sample of the shrub in my hand. He walks over to another bush and performs the same trick. This time it is a spicy, clean scent that makes me instantly hungry. "Oregan-oh," he proclaims. The rest of the tour is spent as if sniffing our way through a well-stocked wild-spice rack, and when we pass a herd of goats pre-seasoning themselves as they graze on the herbs, my growling stomach betrays my carnivorous intentions.
Seaweed Wraps, Feral Cats, and Whitewash
Other excursions include trips to the ancient coastal town of Pafos, where in the 1960s a local farmer stumbled upon a series of intricate mosaics buried by an eons-old earthquake, and to the tiny mountain village of Lofou, where narrow, pedestrian-only thoroughfares and a complete absence of litter lend the place a strangely Disneyesque patina. But this is not Disneyland. From the Phoenicians to the Romans to the British, who still maintain two huge military bases on the island, the trail of civilization goes back 10,000 years.
Truth be told, few guests take the time to explore the past. Most prefer to remain in the present to enjoy an algae wrap at the Thalassa Spa, dine at one of four restaurants, swim up to the infinity-edge pool bar, play tennis or one of myriad water sports, or stroll the landscaped, herb-filled grounds where feral cats live among the olive trees.
Anassa is so smartly designed that you never get the impression that you're at a 177-room resort. The lingering impression is not one of a massive hotel, but of gorgeous details: patches of polished marble, splashes of whitewashed walls framed by sprays of bougainvillea, wrought-iron balconies, lush gardens, mosaic-tile fountains. And, yes, plunge pools.
Taking the Plunge
By the last night of my stay, the only function my lilliputian pool has served has been as a water dish for the kitties that visit in the night. I decide to make my move.
The pool is as brisk as the Mediterranean -- too cool for simply lounging, especially at night. The New Yorker in me is ashamed that I would even consider making such an inane request in light of recent events, so when I call the front desk and ask if my plunge pool could be made warmer I try to borrow Ralph's semi-bored resort tone. To my chagrin, I sound dopey, not worldly. But I am determined to make use of this splash before I leave. It is my own little bowling alley, a useless status symbol I'm going to expose for what it is.
When I return several hours later from a gratifying dinner at Basilico, Anassa's grottolike signature restaurant, I am surprised to see steam swirling about the gently glowing surface. Two plush towels sit neatly folded on the chaise.
I pour a Scotch from the minibar, slip into my suit, and settle comfortably on the steps of the pool. The water is a perfect temperature. The breeze stirs and I catch the fleeting scent of an exotic herb. As I turn to float on my back, a timer turns off the pool light. It's midnight, and with the lights off the night sky is exactly two colors, black and white.
This is not bad, I think to myself, quietly reassessing my stance on plunge pools. When a distant splash and oh-so-faint giggle escape from somewhere in the night, I finally get it: Here I am at the birthplace of Aphrodite, the Goddess of Love, and not one but two towels were put out for me.
Of course, this silly pool isn't big enough for one person to enjoy.
It's small enough for two.
By David Downing
David Downing, a freelance writer and frequent Fodors.com contributor based in New York City, adds this advice: never go solo to Aphrodite's birthplace Read more...
South Africa: Rainbow Nation
My family first came to South Africa from England three decades ago. Earlier, Nigeria had been home for seven years. And as clichéd as it might sound, once Africa gets into your blood, it's hard to deny her pull. Now it was South Africa's sunshine and opportunities that beckoned.
We were immigrants, equipped only with an old car, lots of enthusiasm, and three young children -- "Not enough," the white Afrikaner Immigration official growled after we landed at Cape Town in those now seemingly long-ago apartheid days. "We need more white children." Undaunted, we set off north through the Karoo Desert for Johannesburg -- Egoli, the "place of gold," in Zulu -- blissfully ignorant about the complex, stunningly beautiful country that we would settle in.
Today, in spite of South Africa's ongoing problem with crime and violence, we still wouldn't choose to live anywhere else. There's no room or time for Old World boredom or complacency when you can live in a country where people debate in 11 different official languages -- Archbishop Desmond Tutu christened us "the Rainbow Nation" for our racial and cultural diversity and the name has stuck -- and that has the world's newest and most liberal constitution. It's difficult to imagine a country more vibrant and alive than this.
The whole world knows of our infamous past. Our ground-breaking Truth and Reconciliation Commission continues to ensure that we don't forget it. Although so much heartbreak, trauma, and truth, and so many lies have been revealed at the public hearings, most of us firmly believe that to know the past is part of the process of understanding it, coming to terms with it, and moving on. Amazingly, there's little bitterness or racial conflict -- a lead set by our first democratically elected president, Nelson Mandela, one of the 20th century's most respected leaders.
His successor, seasoned diplomat Thabo Mbeki, although lacking Mandela's charisma, is well respected at home and abroad and seems intent on keeping South Africa afloat economically, politically, and morally. He has taken a strong stand against corruption, aiming for "discipline, hard work and effectiveness, not popularity." The public comforts itself with the knowledge that when yet another corruption scandal erupts, at least these days the corruption -- although not dealt with as firmly and swiftly as it would like -- is "transparent." Transparency is one of the buzz words of the new government -- it is determined not to copy the cloak-and-dagger "dirty tricks" tactics of the former Nationalist governments.
So what's the mood in today's country? South Africans who think positively know that the honeymoon is over and there's a long road ahead but that good things will come to those who wait. Unfortunately, thousands of white professionals have emigrated, because of perceived fears of South Africa's becoming yet another stereotypical African country spiraling into a potential one-party state, a fear of a lack of job opportunities for their children because of the government's rigorous affirmative action program, and fears for their children's educational prospects in government schools bursting at the seams.
Those of us who have stayed take comfort in the burgeoning economy and remind ourselves that we live in the newest, most liberal democracy in the world -- and the one with the best weather in the world.
Immigrants, legal and illegal, flock in from neighboring countries and flood both the squatter camps and the diminishing job market. Although black South Africans have seen sweeping changes in educational, employment, and housing opportunities, massive unemployment fuels the rampant crime figures. Everybody now knows somebody who has been a victim of hijacking, mugging, burglary, or other violence of some kind. People agree that the government of the African National Congress, in for a second four-year term with a sweeping majority, isn't doing too badly. And when you visit the rural areas and the former black townships and see the new clinics, the rows of small neat houses, and the uniformed kids making their way to school, you feel a burst of pride. Okay, we're not making enough changes fast enough, but we're getting there.
Blacks and whites mix freely in public places, and the only apartheid now is that between the haves and the have-nots -- as with anywhere else in the world. We're a noisy, vociferous lot who argue our opinions wherever and whenever anybody will listen -- opinions not hidden or submerged by hypocrisy or warm, fuzzy euphemisms but discussed openly and up-front in the media, in schools and universities, in the home, and wherever people are gathered together. Change is still the keynote of the new South Africa. And energy, buzz, vibrations (both good and bad) permeate the air. Friends of mine, back from two years in Canada, are delighted to be home. In South Africa, they claim, you'll never be bored, there's no chance here of the bland leading the bland.
As a foreigner in South Africa, you'll meet with tremendous hospitality. A friend of mine from Boston, visiting the Kimberley Mine Museum, ended up spending a few days in this historic and fascinating city with a local schoolmaster and his family. Talk, talk, talk to everyone you can -- South Africans love to talk about their country. Other than Ireland, I can't think of a place where people are so keen and ready to discuss their country, warts and all, with such honesty and heady enthusiasm. Sure, we know we have problems, but we are the Rainbow Nation and proud of it.
So welcome, then, to one of the most beautiful and diverse countries on earth, where sea, mountains, rolling plains, mighty rivers, deep gorges and the bush, with its big game, more than 800 birds, and amazing biodiversity will hook you from day one. Your first visit certainly won't be your last.
Kate Turkinton is a South African journalist and broadcaster. She is managing editor of Marung and Flamingo, the in-flight magazines of Air Botswana and Air Namibia.
The preceding essay was excerpted from Fodor's Southern Africa.
By Kate Turkington Read more...
We were immigrants, equipped only with an old car, lots of enthusiasm, and three young children -- "Not enough," the white Afrikaner Immigration official growled after we landed at Cape Town in those now seemingly long-ago apartheid days. "We need more white children." Undaunted, we set off north through the Karoo Desert for Johannesburg -- Egoli, the "place of gold," in Zulu -- blissfully ignorant about the complex, stunningly beautiful country that we would settle in.
Today, in spite of South Africa's ongoing problem with crime and violence, we still wouldn't choose to live anywhere else. There's no room or time for Old World boredom or complacency when you can live in a country where people debate in 11 different official languages -- Archbishop Desmond Tutu christened us "the Rainbow Nation" for our racial and cultural diversity and the name has stuck -- and that has the world's newest and most liberal constitution. It's difficult to imagine a country more vibrant and alive than this.
The whole world knows of our infamous past. Our ground-breaking Truth and Reconciliation Commission continues to ensure that we don't forget it. Although so much heartbreak, trauma, and truth, and so many lies have been revealed at the public hearings, most of us firmly believe that to know the past is part of the process of understanding it, coming to terms with it, and moving on. Amazingly, there's little bitterness or racial conflict -- a lead set by our first democratically elected president, Nelson Mandela, one of the 20th century's most respected leaders.
His successor, seasoned diplomat Thabo Mbeki, although lacking Mandela's charisma, is well respected at home and abroad and seems intent on keeping South Africa afloat economically, politically, and morally. He has taken a strong stand against corruption, aiming for "discipline, hard work and effectiveness, not popularity." The public comforts itself with the knowledge that when yet another corruption scandal erupts, at least these days the corruption -- although not dealt with as firmly and swiftly as it would like -- is "transparent." Transparency is one of the buzz words of the new government -- it is determined not to copy the cloak-and-dagger "dirty tricks" tactics of the former Nationalist governments.
So what's the mood in today's country? South Africans who think positively know that the honeymoon is over and there's a long road ahead but that good things will come to those who wait. Unfortunately, thousands of white professionals have emigrated, because of perceived fears of South Africa's becoming yet another stereotypical African country spiraling into a potential one-party state, a fear of a lack of job opportunities for their children because of the government's rigorous affirmative action program, and fears for their children's educational prospects in government schools bursting at the seams.
Those of us who have stayed take comfort in the burgeoning economy and remind ourselves that we live in the newest, most liberal democracy in the world -- and the one with the best weather in the world.
Immigrants, legal and illegal, flock in from neighboring countries and flood both the squatter camps and the diminishing job market. Although black South Africans have seen sweeping changes in educational, employment, and housing opportunities, massive unemployment fuels the rampant crime figures. Everybody now knows somebody who has been a victim of hijacking, mugging, burglary, or other violence of some kind. People agree that the government of the African National Congress, in for a second four-year term with a sweeping majority, isn't doing too badly. And when you visit the rural areas and the former black townships and see the new clinics, the rows of small neat houses, and the uniformed kids making their way to school, you feel a burst of pride. Okay, we're not making enough changes fast enough, but we're getting there.
Blacks and whites mix freely in public places, and the only apartheid now is that between the haves and the have-nots -- as with anywhere else in the world. We're a noisy, vociferous lot who argue our opinions wherever and whenever anybody will listen -- opinions not hidden or submerged by hypocrisy or warm, fuzzy euphemisms but discussed openly and up-front in the media, in schools and universities, in the home, and wherever people are gathered together. Change is still the keynote of the new South Africa. And energy, buzz, vibrations (both good and bad) permeate the air. Friends of mine, back from two years in Canada, are delighted to be home. In South Africa, they claim, you'll never be bored, there's no chance here of the bland leading the bland.
As a foreigner in South Africa, you'll meet with tremendous hospitality. A friend of mine from Boston, visiting the Kimberley Mine Museum, ended up spending a few days in this historic and fascinating city with a local schoolmaster and his family. Talk, talk, talk to everyone you can -- South Africans love to talk about their country. Other than Ireland, I can't think of a place where people are so keen and ready to discuss their country, warts and all, with such honesty and heady enthusiasm. Sure, we know we have problems, but we are the Rainbow Nation and proud of it.
So welcome, then, to one of the most beautiful and diverse countries on earth, where sea, mountains, rolling plains, mighty rivers, deep gorges and the bush, with its big game, more than 800 birds, and amazing biodiversity will hook you from day one. Your first visit certainly won't be your last.
Kate Turkinton is a South African journalist and broadcaster. She is managing editor of Marung and Flamingo, the in-flight magazines of Air Botswana and Air Namibia.
The preceding essay was excerpted from Fodor's Southern Africa.
By Kate Turkington Read more...
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Shenandoah: It's Not Just a Park, It's an Adventure
One of America's most popular parks, the Shenandoah is a gentle place, draped across the top of the Blue Ridge. Its quiet forests and deer-dotted meadows lie along the deservedly famous Skyline Drive. Meandering across the crest of the Blue Ridge, the drive runs from Front Royal south for 105 miles, with ample places to pull over and gaze down on the serpentine course of the Shenandoah River or across a precipice into an intriguing mountain hollow.
The hollows are unpeopled today, but it was not always so. Before the Civilian Conservation Corps began building the Skyline Drive in the 1930s, this now accessible mountain terrain was wild, remote, and home to mountaineers. Many made a hardscrabble living off the area's abundant chestnut trees, but the chestnut blight of the 1920s put an end to that, and change soon followed.
It came first with an entrepreneur named George Pollock. He took a mountaintop he had inherited near Luray, and turned it into Skyland, a resort frequented by statesmen and presidents. The way up to Pollock's Skyland was rough in those days and the accommodations rustic, but that apparently was part of the appeal. Nightly entertainment centered around a campfire, where live snakes were exhibited and Pollock showed off his marksmanship.
Away from the fire, off in the shadows of the night, mountaineers, too, would gather to see the spectacle. Pollock's showmanship brought fame to the area, and in 1926, Congress authorized the establishment of the Shenandoah National Park. Ten years later, Roosevelt sent in the Civilian Conservation Corps to build the Skyline Drive and to restore the overfarmed, overgrazed land to its natural beauty.
Today, the park is mostly pristine mountain land again, though it does have several developed areas with visitor facilities and accommodations. One of these is an updated version of Skyland (though the entertainment is considerably milder than back in Pollock's showman days).
Many of the park's trails follow the old mountain thoroughfares that used to be the main "highways" through these gaps and hollows. Some of them are now part of the Appalachian Trail, that hikers' highway that runs from Maine to Georgia, cutting straight through the park along the way.
You can still find traces of the mountaineers' handiwork here and there. Close by a streambed, you may discover an old homestead, marked now only by a neatly chinked chimney or a stone fence. If you look closely, you're likely to see an apple tree or two at its edges and maybe the shoots of a hardy iris, planted who knows how long ago.
Old Rag rears up on the far-east edge of Shenandoah National Park, a rough and rugged peak with a lot of character. Its rock-riven 3,268-foot summit offers all kinds of opportunities to negotiate chimneys and crevices and other geologic spectacles rarely found on Old Dominion soil. The hike to the summit totals about seven miles and requires no overwhelming stamina, with the earlier part weaving up forested slopes. However, the higher elevations make you work, taking you over, under, and through pitched rock formations. At the summit, the views sweep back along the Piedmont region and up into the Blue Ridge.
The park and park facilities are located off I-81. From Richmond take I-64 W; from Washington D.C., I-66 W. For more information, call 540/999-3500.
The preceding article was excerpted from Compass American Guides: Virginia. Read more...
The hollows are unpeopled today, but it was not always so. Before the Civilian Conservation Corps began building the Skyline Drive in the 1930s, this now accessible mountain terrain was wild, remote, and home to mountaineers. Many made a hardscrabble living off the area's abundant chestnut trees, but the chestnut blight of the 1920s put an end to that, and change soon followed.
It came first with an entrepreneur named George Pollock. He took a mountaintop he had inherited near Luray, and turned it into Skyland, a resort frequented by statesmen and presidents. The way up to Pollock's Skyland was rough in those days and the accommodations rustic, but that apparently was part of the appeal. Nightly entertainment centered around a campfire, where live snakes were exhibited and Pollock showed off his marksmanship.
Away from the fire, off in the shadows of the night, mountaineers, too, would gather to see the spectacle. Pollock's showmanship brought fame to the area, and in 1926, Congress authorized the establishment of the Shenandoah National Park. Ten years later, Roosevelt sent in the Civilian Conservation Corps to build the Skyline Drive and to restore the overfarmed, overgrazed land to its natural beauty.
Today, the park is mostly pristine mountain land again, though it does have several developed areas with visitor facilities and accommodations. One of these is an updated version of Skyland (though the entertainment is considerably milder than back in Pollock's showman days).
Many of the park's trails follow the old mountain thoroughfares that used to be the main "highways" through these gaps and hollows. Some of them are now part of the Appalachian Trail, that hikers' highway that runs from Maine to Georgia, cutting straight through the park along the way.
You can still find traces of the mountaineers' handiwork here and there. Close by a streambed, you may discover an old homestead, marked now only by a neatly chinked chimney or a stone fence. If you look closely, you're likely to see an apple tree or two at its edges and maybe the shoots of a hardy iris, planted who knows how long ago.
Old Rag rears up on the far-east edge of Shenandoah National Park, a rough and rugged peak with a lot of character. Its rock-riven 3,268-foot summit offers all kinds of opportunities to negotiate chimneys and crevices and other geologic spectacles rarely found on Old Dominion soil. The hike to the summit totals about seven miles and requires no overwhelming stamina, with the earlier part weaving up forested slopes. However, the higher elevations make you work, taking you over, under, and through pitched rock formations. At the summit, the views sweep back along the Piedmont region and up into the Blue Ridge.
The park and park facilities are located off I-81. From Richmond take I-64 W; from Washington D.C., I-66 W. For more information, call 540/999-3500.
The preceding article was excerpted from Compass American Guides: Virginia. Read more...
Secluded Safari
The airstrip of Mikumi National Park is clearly in view, but the pilot of the six-seater plane banks to the right and begins slowly circling the grassy plain. The passengers, eager to see some wildlife, wonder what might be causing the delay.
"It's the zebras," the pilot says, pointing to a cluster of the striped creatures standing near some bushes. "We can't land if they're on the runway."
Satisfied that the way is clear, the pilot finally begins the descent. His passengers are delighted to see a half dozen elephants darting in the other direction. A bit farther away, a trio of giraffes stands its ground. They keep an eye on the plane, however, until it touches down.
Although Mikumi is Tanzania's third-largest national park, few people have heard of it. That is good luck for these visitors, who find that they have the entire game reserve to themselves.
For decades, most visitors to Tanzania have headed to the game reserves that make up the so-called "Northern Circuit." And with good reason, because here you'll find the grasslands of the Serengeti National Park. The annual migration of more than a million wildebeests through the golden grasses is one of nature's greatest shows.
The spectacle attracts tens of thousands of visitors each year, so along with the wildebeest, you're likely to spot dozens of minivans rushing to find the best vantage point. And the other attractions, including the astounding Mt. Kilimanjaro, are just as crowded.
That's why those in the know are heading south, basing themselves in the coastal city of Dar es Salaam instead of the northern town of Arusha. Dar es Salaam, which contains most of Tanzania's top hotels, including the resplendent Royal Palm, has become a gateway to the cluster of less-crowded game reserves that are becoming known as the "Southern Circuit."
"People are just starting to hear about the Southern Circuit," says Adrian Landry, general manager of the Royal Palm. Most of his guests are business travelers, but he expects that to change. "I think that as word gets out about our parks, the number of people heading here is going to explode."
Where the Wild Things Are
Standing on the roof of her Land Cruiser, Zoe Bridger scans the horizon with a pair of high-power binoculars. Bridger, a guide with Tembowengi African Adventures, a tour operator, is looking for the cape buffaloes that passed this way the night before.
The buffaloes are nowhere to be found - "How do you hide a herd of buffaloes?" someone jokes - but Bridger does point out a family of black-backed jackals lounging about in the tall grass. Their comically large ears prick up as the vehicle passes.
"This is the part of Tanzania that I love," says Bridger, gesturing toward the open plain dotted with baobab trees. "If people only want to go to the Northern Circuit, I'll suggest another guide. The national parks in the southern part of the country are still wild."
The largest park in the south - and the largest in all of Africa - is the Selous Game Reserve. It borders with Mikumi, and it isn't difficult to see both in one trip. Whereas Mikumi is grassland dotted with a few watering holes, Selous is dense and at times hilly and mountainous woodland divided by the Rufiji River. An amazing array of game, including hundreds of hippopotamuses, is in residence here.
To the west of the Selous Game Reserve is Udzungwa Mountains National Park, with the highest peaks in the region. Primates are the main attraction here, including rarities like the Sanje crested mangabey and the Iringa red colobus monkey. Beyond that is Ruaha National Park, with rolling plains that are the home of one of the country's largest populations of elephants.
Creature Comforts
A few years ago, the south of Tanzania was a destination for those who didn't mind roughing it. Accommodations were spartan, at best. Today you don't have to give up creature comforts such as hot showers and flush toilets. Many of the lodges, such as the Vuma Hill Tented Camp near Mikumi, are quite luxurious.
After an afternoon game drive, Bridger drives her tired troops back to Vuma Hill. The sun slowly sets over the plains as they retire to the terrace for a cocktail. A crackling fire keeps away the chill.
The conversation this evening is particularly lively, as a pair of naturalists from the Mikumi Baboon Project, one of the longest-running field studies in Africa, have dropped by for a drink. They are new to the project, but are already in love with the country. Everyone agrees.
"I've traveled to other parts of Africa," says Bridger. "But I keep coming back to Tanzania."
Essentials
Getting There
There are no direct flights to Tanzania from the United States, so you'll have to make a connection. The most convenient is through South African Airways, which has frequent flights from Johannesburg.
From Europe, KLM offers the only daily flights to Dar es Salaam.
British Airways also has frequent flights to Dar es Salaam.
When to Go
The best time to visit the game reserves in the Southern Circuit is during the dry season, when animals gather near watering holes, making them easier to spot. The dry season runs from June through November.
What It Will Cost
A week's excursion into southern Tanzania with a guide from Tembowengi costs between $950 and $1,500 per person, depending on whether you will be roughing it in tents or staying in luxe lodges. A one-night stay at Vuma Hill Tented Camp costs $140, including all meals.
A double room at the Royal Palm in Dar es Salaam costs about $185.
Contacts
The Regional Tourism Organization of Southern Africa, better known as RETOSA, has plenty of information about Tanzania and other countries in the region.
Tembowengi African Adventures (tel. 22/266-7704, www.tembowengi.com).
RETOSA (www.retosa.co.za).
Royal Palm (tel. 22/211-2416, www.legacyhotels.co.za).
Vuma Hill Tented Camp (tel. 00-87-176-203-1650, www.vuma.org).
Traveling to the game reserves of Tanzania fulfilled a lifelong dream for Mark Sullivan, editor of the new Fodor's Kenya and Tanzania. He also edited Fodor's Chile, Fodor's South America, and Fodor's Central America.
By Mark Sullivan Read more...
"It's the zebras," the pilot says, pointing to a cluster of the striped creatures standing near some bushes. "We can't land if they're on the runway."
Satisfied that the way is clear, the pilot finally begins the descent. His passengers are delighted to see a half dozen elephants darting in the other direction. A bit farther away, a trio of giraffes stands its ground. They keep an eye on the plane, however, until it touches down.
Although Mikumi is Tanzania's third-largest national park, few people have heard of it. That is good luck for these visitors, who find that they have the entire game reserve to themselves.
For decades, most visitors to Tanzania have headed to the game reserves that make up the so-called "Northern Circuit." And with good reason, because here you'll find the grasslands of the Serengeti National Park. The annual migration of more than a million wildebeests through the golden grasses is one of nature's greatest shows.
The spectacle attracts tens of thousands of visitors each year, so along with the wildebeest, you're likely to spot dozens of minivans rushing to find the best vantage point. And the other attractions, including the astounding Mt. Kilimanjaro, are just as crowded.
That's why those in the know are heading south, basing themselves in the coastal city of Dar es Salaam instead of the northern town of Arusha. Dar es Salaam, which contains most of Tanzania's top hotels, including the resplendent Royal Palm, has become a gateway to the cluster of less-crowded game reserves that are becoming known as the "Southern Circuit."
"People are just starting to hear about the Southern Circuit," says Adrian Landry, general manager of the Royal Palm. Most of his guests are business travelers, but he expects that to change. "I think that as word gets out about our parks, the number of people heading here is going to explode."
Where the Wild Things Are
Standing on the roof of her Land Cruiser, Zoe Bridger scans the horizon with a pair of high-power binoculars. Bridger, a guide with Tembowengi African Adventures, a tour operator, is looking for the cape buffaloes that passed this way the night before.
The buffaloes are nowhere to be found - "How do you hide a herd of buffaloes?" someone jokes - but Bridger does point out a family of black-backed jackals lounging about in the tall grass. Their comically large ears prick up as the vehicle passes.
"This is the part of Tanzania that I love," says Bridger, gesturing toward the open plain dotted with baobab trees. "If people only want to go to the Northern Circuit, I'll suggest another guide. The national parks in the southern part of the country are still wild."
The largest park in the south - and the largest in all of Africa - is the Selous Game Reserve. It borders with Mikumi, and it isn't difficult to see both in one trip. Whereas Mikumi is grassland dotted with a few watering holes, Selous is dense and at times hilly and mountainous woodland divided by the Rufiji River. An amazing array of game, including hundreds of hippopotamuses, is in residence here.
To the west of the Selous Game Reserve is Udzungwa Mountains National Park, with the highest peaks in the region. Primates are the main attraction here, including rarities like the Sanje crested mangabey and the Iringa red colobus monkey. Beyond that is Ruaha National Park, with rolling plains that are the home of one of the country's largest populations of elephants.
Creature Comforts
A few years ago, the south of Tanzania was a destination for those who didn't mind roughing it. Accommodations were spartan, at best. Today you don't have to give up creature comforts such as hot showers and flush toilets. Many of the lodges, such as the Vuma Hill Tented Camp near Mikumi, are quite luxurious.
After an afternoon game drive, Bridger drives her tired troops back to Vuma Hill. The sun slowly sets over the plains as they retire to the terrace for a cocktail. A crackling fire keeps away the chill.
The conversation this evening is particularly lively, as a pair of naturalists from the Mikumi Baboon Project, one of the longest-running field studies in Africa, have dropped by for a drink. They are new to the project, but are already in love with the country. Everyone agrees.
"I've traveled to other parts of Africa," says Bridger. "But I keep coming back to Tanzania."
Essentials
Getting There
There are no direct flights to Tanzania from the United States, so you'll have to make a connection. The most convenient is through South African Airways, which has frequent flights from Johannesburg.
From Europe, KLM offers the only daily flights to Dar es Salaam.
British Airways also has frequent flights to Dar es Salaam.
When to Go
The best time to visit the game reserves in the Southern Circuit is during the dry season, when animals gather near watering holes, making them easier to spot. The dry season runs from June through November.
What It Will Cost
A week's excursion into southern Tanzania with a guide from Tembowengi costs between $950 and $1,500 per person, depending on whether you will be roughing it in tents or staying in luxe lodges. A one-night stay at Vuma Hill Tented Camp costs $140, including all meals.
A double room at the Royal Palm in Dar es Salaam costs about $185.
Contacts
The Regional Tourism Organization of Southern Africa, better known as RETOSA, has plenty of information about Tanzania and other countries in the region.
Tembowengi African Adventures (tel. 22/266-7704, www.tembowengi.com).
RETOSA (www.retosa.co.za).
Royal Palm (tel. 22/211-2416, www.legacyhotels.co.za).
Vuma Hill Tented Camp (tel. 00-87-176-203-1650, www.vuma.org).
Traveling to the game reserves of Tanzania fulfilled a lifelong dream for Mark Sullivan, editor of the new Fodor's Kenya and Tanzania. He also edited Fodor's Chile, Fodor's South America, and Fodor's Central America.
By Mark Sullivan Read more...
Oysters and Icebergs in Chile
As the ship slowly approaches Isla Magdalena, you begin to make out thousands of black dots along the shore. You hold your breath, knowing this is your first look at the 120,000 residents of Monumento Natural Los Pingüinos, one of South America's largest penguin sanctuaries.
Once you get ashore, throngs of penguins waddle across your path. They eye you nervously, then scramble over the rocks on their way to the water. Most keep their distance, but the boldest of the lot walk over for a closer look. One curious little guy even yanks at your shoelace.
Isla Magdalena is the highlight of a seven-night cruise on the Terra Australis, which sails from Chile's southernmost city of Punta Arenas. During its weeklong journey around Tierra del Fuego, the gleaming white ship takes you closer than you ever thought possible to a wide range of animals, from condors that soar above Yendegaia Bay to sea lions swimming at Garibaldi Inlet to a family of elephant seals near the Marinelli Glacier.
Southern Chile, where the peaks of the Andes seem to rise directly from the ocean, is one of the most beautiful places on earth. There are few roads through this remote region, which is why many people are taking advantage of ships like the Terra Australis. In recent months, as tourism has declined in other parts of the world, travel agents report that more and more people are inquiring about trips to this remote corner of the earth.
A sense of adventure
Terra Australis isn't the type of cruise ship on which you see the sights from a deck chair. Two or three times a day you'll motor ashore in small boats to hike through virgin forests, ride horses over wind-swept plains, or climb to the top of a ridge for an unforgettable look at a massive chunk of blue ice called the Serrano Glacier. And lectures in English and Spanish on the region's geography and history, flora and fauna are so detailed that you'll feel as if you should be taking notes.
The vessel is small -- only 55 cabins -- so that it can negotiate the narrow channels of Tierra del Fuego. The Magallanes Lounge is always packed with passengers discussing the day's adventures. Yet the ship doesn't feel cramped, as most prefer a quiet spot on the deck to admire the snowy peaks as you sail past.
Terra Australis is operated by Cruceros Australis, which plans to pop the champagne on its second ship, the Mare Australis, in late 2002. That ship will sail around Cape Horn, the tip of South America.
Pamper yourself
You feel as if you're checking into a five-star hotel when you step aboard Skorpios III, the most luxurious of the three ships operated by Cruceros Maritimos Skorpios. A crew member carries your bags to your wood-paneled cabin, where a bottle of champagne awaits. Sunlight streams in through the huge windows.
The real pampering begins in the dining room, where passengers are treated to dishes ranging from succulent king crab to a hearty seafood stew. Don't ask if the food is fresh; in the late afternoon a small fishing boat delivers the day's catch right to the boat.
Captain Constantine Kochifas orders all the water removed from his table. The only beverage that should be enjoyed with oysters, he explains, is champagne. The captain is right, of course. By the time the waiters clear away the plates, everyone is feeling giddy.
Exploring the coast
Terra Australis offers a great trip for nature lovers; the Skorpios III is perfect for those who want to get to know the culture. The day after it departs from Puerto Montt, the Skorpios III arrives at Puerto Aguirre, a fishing village along the southern coast. Small children crowd the dock, offering to take you to the hilltop. The climb is steep, but you're rewarded with views in every direction of the islands dotting the deep-blue waters.
The most interesting stop by far is at Castro, the largest town on the archipelago of Chiloé. The waterfront is lined by palafitos, rickety wooden houses balancing on stilts. Overlooking the central square is the Iglesia de San Francisco, painted eye-catching shades of yellow and orange. The church is like those built by missionaries more than two centuries ago. If you'd like to visit a few of these churches, taxi drivers will oblige.
The high point of the six-night journey is the morning you notice icebergs floating past your cabin window. You grab a windbreaker and head to the upper deck in time to catch sunlight reflecting off the San Raphael Glacier. It's a noisy beast, roaring like thunder as the sheets of ice shift. You're lucky enough to see a few huge pieces of ice calve off, causing violent waves that make you glad the boat stayed at a safe distance.
Budget travel
If you don't have a week to spare, or if your budget is tight, you can still see the Chilean coast. The Terra Australis offers cruises lasting four nights (departing from Punta Arenas) or three nights (departing from the Argentine city of Ushuaia). Skorpios I, which sails from Puerto Chacabuco, travels a slightly shorter route than the Skorpios II or Skorpios III.
Another option is the Evangelistas, operated by Navimag. The rather inelegant ferry visits the San Raphael Glacier in four days. There are six cabins aboard, but most passengers choose to sleep in reclining chairs. It's not as comfortable as the Skorpios III, but you're seeing the same sights and paying a fraction of the price.
Getting there
LanChile (www.lanchile.com) offers daily flights from Santiago to Puerto Montt, Puerto Chacabuco, and Punta Arenas.
When to go
Because of icy conditions in the winter, these ships sail only during warm months. (Remember that seasons are reversed below the equator.) Terra Australis sails from October to April. Skorpios I, Skorpios II, and Skorpios III sail from September to May. Evangelistas sails to the San Raphael glacier several times a month between October and February.
What it will cost
Three-night cruises on Terra Australis are $1,078 to $1,649 per person. Four-night cruises are $1,244 to $1,903. Weeklong journeys are $1,659 to $2,957.
Three-night cruises on Skorpios I are $430 to $650 per person, while four night cruises are $490 to $710. Six-night cruises on Skorpios II are $950 to $1,700 per person. Six-night cruises on Skorpios III are $1,260 to $2,500.
Four-night cruises on Evangelistas are $416 per person in a double room, or $178 for a reclining chair.
Information
Cruceros Australis (Av. El Bosque Norte 0440, Santiago, tel. 2/442-3110, fax 2/203-5173, www.australis.com).
Navimag (Av. El Bosque Norte 0440, Santiago, tel. 2/442-3120, fax 2/203-5025, www.navimag.cl).
Cruceros Maritimos Skorpios (Augusto Leguía Norte 118, Santiago, tel. 2/231-1030, www.skorpios.cl).
By Mark Sullivan Read more...
Once you get ashore, throngs of penguins waddle across your path. They eye you nervously, then scramble over the rocks on their way to the water. Most keep their distance, but the boldest of the lot walk over for a closer look. One curious little guy even yanks at your shoelace.
Isla Magdalena is the highlight of a seven-night cruise on the Terra Australis, which sails from Chile's southernmost city of Punta Arenas. During its weeklong journey around Tierra del Fuego, the gleaming white ship takes you closer than you ever thought possible to a wide range of animals, from condors that soar above Yendegaia Bay to sea lions swimming at Garibaldi Inlet to a family of elephant seals near the Marinelli Glacier.
Southern Chile, where the peaks of the Andes seem to rise directly from the ocean, is one of the most beautiful places on earth. There are few roads through this remote region, which is why many people are taking advantage of ships like the Terra Australis. In recent months, as tourism has declined in other parts of the world, travel agents report that more and more people are inquiring about trips to this remote corner of the earth.
A sense of adventure
Terra Australis isn't the type of cruise ship on which you see the sights from a deck chair. Two or three times a day you'll motor ashore in small boats to hike through virgin forests, ride horses over wind-swept plains, or climb to the top of a ridge for an unforgettable look at a massive chunk of blue ice called the Serrano Glacier. And lectures in English and Spanish on the region's geography and history, flora and fauna are so detailed that you'll feel as if you should be taking notes.
The vessel is small -- only 55 cabins -- so that it can negotiate the narrow channels of Tierra del Fuego. The Magallanes Lounge is always packed with passengers discussing the day's adventures. Yet the ship doesn't feel cramped, as most prefer a quiet spot on the deck to admire the snowy peaks as you sail past.
Terra Australis is operated by Cruceros Australis, which plans to pop the champagne on its second ship, the Mare Australis, in late 2002. That ship will sail around Cape Horn, the tip of South America.
Pamper yourself
You feel as if you're checking into a five-star hotel when you step aboard Skorpios III, the most luxurious of the three ships operated by Cruceros Maritimos Skorpios. A crew member carries your bags to your wood-paneled cabin, where a bottle of champagne awaits. Sunlight streams in through the huge windows.
The real pampering begins in the dining room, where passengers are treated to dishes ranging from succulent king crab to a hearty seafood stew. Don't ask if the food is fresh; in the late afternoon a small fishing boat delivers the day's catch right to the boat.
Captain Constantine Kochifas orders all the water removed from his table. The only beverage that should be enjoyed with oysters, he explains, is champagne. The captain is right, of course. By the time the waiters clear away the plates, everyone is feeling giddy.
Exploring the coast
Terra Australis offers a great trip for nature lovers; the Skorpios III is perfect for those who want to get to know the culture. The day after it departs from Puerto Montt, the Skorpios III arrives at Puerto Aguirre, a fishing village along the southern coast. Small children crowd the dock, offering to take you to the hilltop. The climb is steep, but you're rewarded with views in every direction of the islands dotting the deep-blue waters.
The most interesting stop by far is at Castro, the largest town on the archipelago of Chiloé. The waterfront is lined by palafitos, rickety wooden houses balancing on stilts. Overlooking the central square is the Iglesia de San Francisco, painted eye-catching shades of yellow and orange. The church is like those built by missionaries more than two centuries ago. If you'd like to visit a few of these churches, taxi drivers will oblige.
The high point of the six-night journey is the morning you notice icebergs floating past your cabin window. You grab a windbreaker and head to the upper deck in time to catch sunlight reflecting off the San Raphael Glacier. It's a noisy beast, roaring like thunder as the sheets of ice shift. You're lucky enough to see a few huge pieces of ice calve off, causing violent waves that make you glad the boat stayed at a safe distance.
Budget travel
If you don't have a week to spare, or if your budget is tight, you can still see the Chilean coast. The Terra Australis offers cruises lasting four nights (departing from Punta Arenas) or three nights (departing from the Argentine city of Ushuaia). Skorpios I, which sails from Puerto Chacabuco, travels a slightly shorter route than the Skorpios II or Skorpios III.
Another option is the Evangelistas, operated by Navimag. The rather inelegant ferry visits the San Raphael Glacier in four days. There are six cabins aboard, but most passengers choose to sleep in reclining chairs. It's not as comfortable as the Skorpios III, but you're seeing the same sights and paying a fraction of the price.
Getting there
LanChile (www.lanchile.com) offers daily flights from Santiago to Puerto Montt, Puerto Chacabuco, and Punta Arenas.
When to go
Because of icy conditions in the winter, these ships sail only during warm months. (Remember that seasons are reversed below the equator.) Terra Australis sails from October to April. Skorpios I, Skorpios II, and Skorpios III sail from September to May. Evangelistas sails to the San Raphael glacier several times a month between October and February.
What it will cost
Three-night cruises on Terra Australis are $1,078 to $1,649 per person. Four-night cruises are $1,244 to $1,903. Weeklong journeys are $1,659 to $2,957.
Three-night cruises on Skorpios I are $430 to $650 per person, while four night cruises are $490 to $710. Six-night cruises on Skorpios II are $950 to $1,700 per person. Six-night cruises on Skorpios III are $1,260 to $2,500.
Four-night cruises on Evangelistas are $416 per person in a double room, or $178 for a reclining chair.
Information
Cruceros Australis (Av. El Bosque Norte 0440, Santiago, tel. 2/442-3110, fax 2/203-5173, www.australis.com).
Navimag (Av. El Bosque Norte 0440, Santiago, tel. 2/442-3120, fax 2/203-5025, www.navimag.cl).
Cruceros Maritimos Skorpios (Augusto Leguía Norte 118, Santiago, tel. 2/231-1030, www.skorpios.cl).
By Mark Sullivan Read more...
Remembering the World Trade Center
A terrorist attack on September 11, 2001, destroyed Manhattan's World Trade Center complex, whose twin towers were the tallest buildings in New York City and two of the tallest in the world. On that fateful day, hijacked jetliners rammed into the towers, destroying them and surrounding structures. About 2,900 people lost their lives. Called Ground Zero, the fenced-in 16-acre work site that emerged from the rubble has come to symbolize the personal and historical impact of the attack. In an attempt to grasp the reality of the destruction, to pray, or simply to witness history, visitors come to the site for a glimpse of what is left, clustering at every viewpoint along the secured area's perimeter.
The World Trade Center was much more than its most famous twins. A 16-acre, 12-million-square-ft complex, it resembled a miniature city, with a daytime population of 140,000 (including 40,000 employees and 100,000 business and leisure visitors). The center comprised seven buildings in all, arranged around a plaza modeled after, and larger than, Venice's Piazza San Marco. Underground was a giant mall with nearly a hundred stores and restaurants and a network of subway and other train stations.
Designers and critics may have debated the World Trade Center's architectural merits, but there's no disputing the ingenuity required to erect the place. Part of it had to be built below the waterline, so a giant concrete "bathtub" was built to keep the sea out. From inside the bathtub, 1.2 million cubic yards of dirt were removed. Finally, upon the foundation of Manhattan bedrock, 100 million tons of steel (a dozen different grades), glass (there are 43,000 windows), concrete (425,000 cubic tons), and other materials were built into the twin towers. Some term it one of the most ambitious engineering feats of all time.
World Trade Center Chronology
1960: Downtown/Lower Manhattan Association recommends development of World Trade Center by the Port Authority of New York & New Jersey.
1964: Architectural plan presented by Minoru Yamasaki Associates (Michigan) and Emery Roth & Sons (New York).
1966: Excavation of site begins.
1968: Steel construction begins.
1970-71: Tenants begin moving into 1 World Trade Center (north tower).
1972-73: Tenants begin moving into 2 World Trade Center (south tower).
1973: World Trade Center is dedicated.
1974: French acrobat Philippe Petit and a pal install a cable between the two towers' roofs. Petit crosses from one to the other.
1977: Mountain climber George Willig scales 1 World Trade Center.
1993: Terrorists detonate a bomb in 1 World Trade Center, creating a crater five stories deep.
1999: Thor Alex Kappfjell evades building security and sky dives from the observation deck atop 2 World Trade Center.
2001: Hijacked commercial airliners slam into towers, which collapse shortly thereafter. Read more...
The World Trade Center was much more than its most famous twins. A 16-acre, 12-million-square-ft complex, it resembled a miniature city, with a daytime population of 140,000 (including 40,000 employees and 100,000 business and leisure visitors). The center comprised seven buildings in all, arranged around a plaza modeled after, and larger than, Venice's Piazza San Marco. Underground was a giant mall with nearly a hundred stores and restaurants and a network of subway and other train stations.
Designers and critics may have debated the World Trade Center's architectural merits, but there's no disputing the ingenuity required to erect the place. Part of it had to be built below the waterline, so a giant concrete "bathtub" was built to keep the sea out. From inside the bathtub, 1.2 million cubic yards of dirt were removed. Finally, upon the foundation of Manhattan bedrock, 100 million tons of steel (a dozen different grades), glass (there are 43,000 windows), concrete (425,000 cubic tons), and other materials were built into the twin towers. Some term it one of the most ambitious engineering feats of all time.
World Trade Center Chronology
1960: Downtown/Lower Manhattan Association recommends development of World Trade Center by the Port Authority of New York & New Jersey.
1964: Architectural plan presented by Minoru Yamasaki Associates (Michigan) and Emery Roth & Sons (New York).
1966: Excavation of site begins.
1968: Steel construction begins.
1970-71: Tenants begin moving into 1 World Trade Center (north tower).
1972-73: Tenants begin moving into 2 World Trade Center (south tower).
1973: World Trade Center is dedicated.
1974: French acrobat Philippe Petit and a pal install a cable between the two towers' roofs. Petit crosses from one to the other.
1977: Mountain climber George Willig scales 1 World Trade Center.
1993: Terrorists detonate a bomb in 1 World Trade Center, creating a crater five stories deep.
1999: Thor Alex Kappfjell evades building security and sky dives from the observation deck atop 2 World Trade Center.
2001: Hijacked commercial airliners slam into towers, which collapse shortly thereafter. Read more...
Montana Winter Recreation
Although Montana is generally viewed as a summer destination, winter is an attraction in its own right. The difference between the two seasons is in the way people travel. While summer travel is geared to the open road, the goal in winter is to ditch the car as soon as possible. Snow and ice take the pleasure out of exploring Montana's vast and diverse landscape, so winter travel is generally confined to a single destination. A number of attractive resorts and winter services in nearby Yellowstone National Park make Montana an increasingly popular winter destination.
The mountains of western Montana begin filling up with snow in September and October, and by December the winter season is in full swing. Because of Montana's dry climate, snow piles up as deep, dry powder -- perfect for skiing and snowmobiling. Each year, a growing number of skiers abandon the congestion and long lift lines of better-known ski areas in Colorado and Utah for the uncrowded, easygoing, and more affordable atmosphere of Montana's downhill ski areas. There are also a number of cross-country ski resorts within gliding distance of national forest and wilderness trailheads.
Downhill Skiing
Montana's downhill areas range from destination resorts to locally popular day-use areas. The 12 areas below are listed in order of size, with the largest listed first.
Daily Adult Lift Tickets:
$ = under $25; $$ = $25-35; $$$ = over $35
The Big Mountain. 8 miles north of Whitefish; 406/862-1900 or 800/858-3913 $$$
This destination resort draws heavily on the western Canadian market as well as skiers from the Pacific Northwest who arrive by Amtrak. The area has 56 marked runs, two quad chairlifts, four triple chairs, and one double chair. The resort offers a variety of lodging options, several restaurants and bars, ski shop, ski school, day care, and Nordic center.
Big Sky. In the Gallatin Canyon, 43 miles south of Bozeman on U.S. 191; 406/995-5000 or 800/548-4486 $$$
One of Montana's top destination resorts, Big Sky boasts the highest vertical drop -- 4,180 feet (1,254 m) in the nation. There are 75 runs on two mountains, one gondola, a two-car tram, three high-speed quads, three triple chairs, three double chairs, and one quad. Facilities include more than 1,000 rooms and condo units, restaurants, bars, shops, ski shop, day care, and superb cross-country skiing at nearby Lone Mountain Ranch.
Bridger Bowl. 16 miles northeast of Bozeman; 406/586-1518 or 800/548-4486 $$
Primarily a day-use area with limited lodging on the slope. Lots of powder, challenging runs, and full services in nearby Bozeman make this a popular area for serious skiers. There are 60 runs, five double chairs, and one quad chair. Limited condominium units and private home rentals, day lodge with cafeteria and bar, ski shop, and day care.
Discovery Basin. 20 miles west of Anaconda/50 miles west of Butte; 406/563-2184 or 800/332-3272 $$
Located near Georgetown Lake and the Anaconda Pintler Wilderness, this is a popular day-use area for skiers in the Butte-Anaconda area. There are 40 runs, three double chairs, and one triple chair. Facilities include a day lodge with cafeteria, ski shop, and nearby cross-country ski trails. Lodging is available at Fairmont Hot Springs, 32 miles (50 km) east, and in Anaconda and Butte.
Great Divide. 22 miles northwest of Helena; 406/449-3746 $$
Near the ghost town of Marysville, this is the capital city's neighborhood ski area. There are 60 runs and three double chairs. Facilities include a day lodge with restaurant and bar, and a ski shop. Full services in Helena.
Lost Trail Powder Mountain. 90 miles south of Missoula on U.S. 93; 800/821-3508 $
Straddling the Montana-Idaho border, this day-use area is known for its reliable snow and long season. There are 18 runs and two double chairs. Facilities include a day lodge with cafeteria and a ski shop. Limited lodging in Darby and nearby resorts; full services in Hamilton, 45 miles north (72 km), and Salmon, ID, 45 miles (72 km) south.
Red Lodge Mountain. Just outside Red Lodge, 60 miles southwest of Billings; 406/446-2610 or 800/444-8977 $$
This popular day-use area in the Beartooth Mountains has lots of intermediate slopes and great spring skiing. As Montana's easternmost ski area, it draws heavily on skiers from the upper Midwest. There are 60 runs, two quads, one triple chair, and four double chairs. Restaurant, cafeteria, a few bars, ski shop, kids' ski program, and gift shop. Full lodging, food, and services are available in nearby Red Lodge.
Marshall Mountain. 7 miles northeast of Missoula; 406/258-6000 $
A beginners' and intermediates' day-use area with 22 runs and one triple chair; night skiing. On-site are a day lodge, snack bar, and ski shop. Full services in Missoula.
Maverick Mountain. In Beaverhead National Forest, 35 miles west of Dillon; 406/834-3454 $
Located in the Pioneer Mountains, this locally popular day-use area can be rented by groups for private skiing three days a week. There are 16 trails and one double chair. Facilities include a day lodge with food and beverage service and a ski shop. Limited lodging at nearby resorts; full services in Dillon.
Montana Snowbowl. 12 miles northwest of Missoula; 406/549-9777 or 800/728-2695 $$
Home of the annual National Gelande Jump Championship. Steep slopes and deep bowls make this day-use area especially popular with advanced skiers. There are 30 runs and two double chairs. On-site are a cafeteria, saloon, ski shop, and nursery. Full lodging, food, and services are available in Missoula.
Rocky Mountain Hi. On the Rocky Mountain Front, 60 miles north
of Great Falls/30 miles west of Choteau; 406/467-3664 $$
This locally popular, family day-use area offers 25 trails and one double chair. On-site is a day lodge with cafeteria and bar, ski shop, and day care. Lodging is available in Choteau.
Showdown Ski Area. 8 miles south of Neihart and 60 miles southeast of Great Falls; 406/236-5522 or 800/433-0022 $$
Part of the Kings Hill Winter Sports complex in the Little Belt Mountains of central Montana, this popular family area draws heavily on the Great Falls market. There are 34 runs, one triple chair, and one double chair. On-site are a cafeteria, saloon, ski shop, and nursery. Fine Nordic skiing and snowmobiling nearby. Limited lodging and food are available in nearby Neihart and White Sulphur Springs (30 miles away); full services in Great Falls.
Cross-Country Skiing
Montana has several one-of-a-kind cross-country ski resorts, plus some excellent day-use Nordic centers and trail systems. Following are brief descriptions of the foremost resorts and areas:
Big Mountain Nordic Center. At Big Mountain, 8 miles north of Whitefish; 406/862-2946 or 800/858-5439
An international training and racing center for cross-country and biathlon teams. Open to the public are six miles (10 km) of groomed and tracked trails, plus instruction, rentals, and guided tours of nearby Glacier Park and other backcountry areas.
Bohart Ranch Cross Country Ski Center. 16 miles northeast of Bozeman; 406/586-9070
Adjacent to Bridger Bowl Ski Area, the center has 18 miles (30 km) of groomed and tracked trails suitable for diagonal stride skiing and skating, plus rentals, lessons, and a warming cabin. There is also a biathlon range for year-round training and competition. Full services in nearby Bozeman.
Holland Lake Lodge. In the Seeley Swan Valley, just off MT 83; 406/754-2282 or 800/648-8859
This comfortable lodge offers 15 miles (25 km) of groomed trails. Lodging runs from about $60 per night for two people in the lodge to $120 for up to four in cabins, meals extra. Weekends only.
Izaak Walton Inn. At Essex, just off U.S. 2, bet. East and West Glacier; 406/888-5700
Close to Glacier National Park and the Great Bear Wilderness, this historic railroad inn is set in what has been described by Cross Country Skier magazine as "the coziest cross-country ski area in the Rockies." More than 18 miles (30 km) of groomed and tracked trails are augmented by a network of backcountry trails. Amtrak stops at the back door. Rentals, instruction, and tours of Glacier Park are available. Packages are offered for three, five, or seven days. Reservations recommended. Trail system is open to day skiers.
Lone Mountain Ranch. 40 miles south of Bozeman/20 miles northwest of Yellowstone National Park; 406/995-4644, ext. 120
Montana's finest Nordic resort, this guest ranch is within skiing distance of the Big Sky downhill ski resort. The ranch offers 40 miles (76 km) of groomed and tracked trails for skiers and skaters, plus guided tours into Yellowstone, instruction and rentals, sleigh-ride dinners, on-the-trail gourmet lunches, and excellent food and lodging. Most trips are booked on a week-long, package basis at a per-person rate of around $1,900, double occupancy. Reservations are required. The trail system is open to day skiers.
Red Lodge Nordic Ski Area. Outside Red Lodge, 60 miles southwest of Billings; 406/446-1770
This trail system offers nine miles (15 km) of groomed trails for skiers and skaters, plus instruction, rentals, a skiathlon course, guided backcountry tours, and shuttle service to nearby Red Lodge Mountain downhill ski area. Full lodging, food, and services in town.
Sundance Lodge. Just off MT 43 between Wisdom and Wise River; 406/689-3611
This small, remote lodge in the Big Hole Valley of southwestern Montana offers 15 miles (24 km) of groomed and tracked trails, plus additional trails in the Beaverhead National Forest. Lodging is per night for two, meals extra.
Yellowstone Rendezvous Trail System. Next to Yellowstone National Park; 406/646-7701
The town of West Yellowstone maintains 15 miles (24 km) of groomed and tracked trails that are used for early-season training by the U.S. Nordic and biathlon teams. Full lodging, food, and services, plus rentals, instruction, and guided tours of the park, in town.
Norma Tirrell produced Montana's official travel guides while working for the state's department of commerce, and is the author of We Montanans. The preceding article was excerpted from Compass American Guides: Montana.
By Norma Tirrell Read more...
The mountains of western Montana begin filling up with snow in September and October, and by December the winter season is in full swing. Because of Montana's dry climate, snow piles up as deep, dry powder -- perfect for skiing and snowmobiling. Each year, a growing number of skiers abandon the congestion and long lift lines of better-known ski areas in Colorado and Utah for the uncrowded, easygoing, and more affordable atmosphere of Montana's downhill ski areas. There are also a number of cross-country ski resorts within gliding distance of national forest and wilderness trailheads.
Downhill Skiing
Montana's downhill areas range from destination resorts to locally popular day-use areas. The 12 areas below are listed in order of size, with the largest listed first.
Daily Adult Lift Tickets:
$ = under $25; $$ = $25-35; $$$ = over $35
The Big Mountain. 8 miles north of Whitefish; 406/862-1900 or 800/858-3913 $$$
This destination resort draws heavily on the western Canadian market as well as skiers from the Pacific Northwest who arrive by Amtrak. The area has 56 marked runs, two quad chairlifts, four triple chairs, and one double chair. The resort offers a variety of lodging options, several restaurants and bars, ski shop, ski school, day care, and Nordic center.
Big Sky. In the Gallatin Canyon, 43 miles south of Bozeman on U.S. 191; 406/995-5000 or 800/548-4486 $$$
One of Montana's top destination resorts, Big Sky boasts the highest vertical drop -- 4,180 feet (1,254 m) in the nation. There are 75 runs on two mountains, one gondola, a two-car tram, three high-speed quads, three triple chairs, three double chairs, and one quad. Facilities include more than 1,000 rooms and condo units, restaurants, bars, shops, ski shop, day care, and superb cross-country skiing at nearby Lone Mountain Ranch.
Bridger Bowl. 16 miles northeast of Bozeman; 406/586-1518 or 800/548-4486 $$
Primarily a day-use area with limited lodging on the slope. Lots of powder, challenging runs, and full services in nearby Bozeman make this a popular area for serious skiers. There are 60 runs, five double chairs, and one quad chair. Limited condominium units and private home rentals, day lodge with cafeteria and bar, ski shop, and day care.
Discovery Basin. 20 miles west of Anaconda/50 miles west of Butte; 406/563-2184 or 800/332-3272 $$
Located near Georgetown Lake and the Anaconda Pintler Wilderness, this is a popular day-use area for skiers in the Butte-Anaconda area. There are 40 runs, three double chairs, and one triple chair. Facilities include a day lodge with cafeteria, ski shop, and nearby cross-country ski trails. Lodging is available at Fairmont Hot Springs, 32 miles (50 km) east, and in Anaconda and Butte.
Great Divide. 22 miles northwest of Helena; 406/449-3746 $$
Near the ghost town of Marysville, this is the capital city's neighborhood ski area. There are 60 runs and three double chairs. Facilities include a day lodge with restaurant and bar, and a ski shop. Full services in Helena.
Lost Trail Powder Mountain. 90 miles south of Missoula on U.S. 93; 800/821-3508 $
Straddling the Montana-Idaho border, this day-use area is known for its reliable snow and long season. There are 18 runs and two double chairs. Facilities include a day lodge with cafeteria and a ski shop. Limited lodging in Darby and nearby resorts; full services in Hamilton, 45 miles north (72 km), and Salmon, ID, 45 miles (72 km) south.
Red Lodge Mountain. Just outside Red Lodge, 60 miles southwest of Billings; 406/446-2610 or 800/444-8977 $$
This popular day-use area in the Beartooth Mountains has lots of intermediate slopes and great spring skiing. As Montana's easternmost ski area, it draws heavily on skiers from the upper Midwest. There are 60 runs, two quads, one triple chair, and four double chairs. Restaurant, cafeteria, a few bars, ski shop, kids' ski program, and gift shop. Full lodging, food, and services are available in nearby Red Lodge.
Marshall Mountain. 7 miles northeast of Missoula; 406/258-6000 $
A beginners' and intermediates' day-use area with 22 runs and one triple chair; night skiing. On-site are a day lodge, snack bar, and ski shop. Full services in Missoula.
Maverick Mountain. In Beaverhead National Forest, 35 miles west of Dillon; 406/834-3454 $
Located in the Pioneer Mountains, this locally popular day-use area can be rented by groups for private skiing three days a week. There are 16 trails and one double chair. Facilities include a day lodge with food and beverage service and a ski shop. Limited lodging at nearby resorts; full services in Dillon.
Montana Snowbowl. 12 miles northwest of Missoula; 406/549-9777 or 800/728-2695 $$
Home of the annual National Gelande Jump Championship. Steep slopes and deep bowls make this day-use area especially popular with advanced skiers. There are 30 runs and two double chairs. On-site are a cafeteria, saloon, ski shop, and nursery. Full lodging, food, and services are available in Missoula.
Rocky Mountain Hi. On the Rocky Mountain Front, 60 miles north
of Great Falls/30 miles west of Choteau; 406/467-3664 $$
This locally popular, family day-use area offers 25 trails and one double chair. On-site is a day lodge with cafeteria and bar, ski shop, and day care. Lodging is available in Choteau.
Showdown Ski Area. 8 miles south of Neihart and 60 miles southeast of Great Falls; 406/236-5522 or 800/433-0022 $$
Part of the Kings Hill Winter Sports complex in the Little Belt Mountains of central Montana, this popular family area draws heavily on the Great Falls market. There are 34 runs, one triple chair, and one double chair. On-site are a cafeteria, saloon, ski shop, and nursery. Fine Nordic skiing and snowmobiling nearby. Limited lodging and food are available in nearby Neihart and White Sulphur Springs (30 miles away); full services in Great Falls.
Cross-Country Skiing
Montana has several one-of-a-kind cross-country ski resorts, plus some excellent day-use Nordic centers and trail systems. Following are brief descriptions of the foremost resorts and areas:
Big Mountain Nordic Center. At Big Mountain, 8 miles north of Whitefish; 406/862-2946 or 800/858-5439
An international training and racing center for cross-country and biathlon teams. Open to the public are six miles (10 km) of groomed and tracked trails, plus instruction, rentals, and guided tours of nearby Glacier Park and other backcountry areas.
Bohart Ranch Cross Country Ski Center. 16 miles northeast of Bozeman; 406/586-9070
Adjacent to Bridger Bowl Ski Area, the center has 18 miles (30 km) of groomed and tracked trails suitable for diagonal stride skiing and skating, plus rentals, lessons, and a warming cabin. There is also a biathlon range for year-round training and competition. Full services in nearby Bozeman.
Holland Lake Lodge. In the Seeley Swan Valley, just off MT 83; 406/754-2282 or 800/648-8859
This comfortable lodge offers 15 miles (25 km) of groomed trails. Lodging runs from about $60 per night for two people in the lodge to $120 for up to four in cabins, meals extra. Weekends only.
Izaak Walton Inn. At Essex, just off U.S. 2, bet. East and West Glacier; 406/888-5700
Close to Glacier National Park and the Great Bear Wilderness, this historic railroad inn is set in what has been described by Cross Country Skier magazine as "the coziest cross-country ski area in the Rockies." More than 18 miles (30 km) of groomed and tracked trails are augmented by a network of backcountry trails. Amtrak stops at the back door. Rentals, instruction, and tours of Glacier Park are available. Packages are offered for three, five, or seven days. Reservations recommended. Trail system is open to day skiers.
Lone Mountain Ranch. 40 miles south of Bozeman/20 miles northwest of Yellowstone National Park; 406/995-4644, ext. 120
Montana's finest Nordic resort, this guest ranch is within skiing distance of the Big Sky downhill ski resort. The ranch offers 40 miles (76 km) of groomed and tracked trails for skiers and skaters, plus guided tours into Yellowstone, instruction and rentals, sleigh-ride dinners, on-the-trail gourmet lunches, and excellent food and lodging. Most trips are booked on a week-long, package basis at a per-person rate of around $1,900, double occupancy. Reservations are required. The trail system is open to day skiers.
Red Lodge Nordic Ski Area. Outside Red Lodge, 60 miles southwest of Billings; 406/446-1770
This trail system offers nine miles (15 km) of groomed trails for skiers and skaters, plus instruction, rentals, a skiathlon course, guided backcountry tours, and shuttle service to nearby Red Lodge Mountain downhill ski area. Full lodging, food, and services in town.
Sundance Lodge. Just off MT 43 between Wisdom and Wise River; 406/689-3611
This small, remote lodge in the Big Hole Valley of southwestern Montana offers 15 miles (24 km) of groomed and tracked trails, plus additional trails in the Beaverhead National Forest. Lodging is per night for two, meals extra.
Yellowstone Rendezvous Trail System. Next to Yellowstone National Park; 406/646-7701
The town of West Yellowstone maintains 15 miles (24 km) of groomed and tracked trails that are used for early-season training by the U.S. Nordic and biathlon teams. Full lodging, food, and services, plus rentals, instruction, and guided tours of the park, in town.
Norma Tirrell produced Montana's official travel guides while working for the state's department of commerce, and is the author of We Montanans. The preceding article was excerpted from Compass American Guides: Montana.
By Norma Tirrell Read more...
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Hungry, Hungry Hippos
As the boat putters upstream, the Shire River is a nearly unbroken expanse of silvery blue. Only some logs floating in the distance break the surface. But as you draw closer, you notice that each log has a pair of eyes, and they're all staring intently at you.
Not just eyes, but ears and occasionally a mouth that opens wide in an extravagant yawn. They belong to some of the hundreds of hippopotamuses that make their home here in the tranquil waters of Liwonde National Park. This little-known game reserve is one of the best reasons to visit the African nation of Malawi, a sliver of land bordered by Tanzania, Mozambique, and Zambia.
Although this tiny country is overshadowed by its better-known neighbors, Malawi is attracting more and more animal lovers. You can certainly find the so-called "big five" here - lions, leopards, elephants, buffaloes, and rhinoceroses - but national parks such as Liwonde are popular among those who aren't looking for a traditional safari.
"My wife and I were looking for something different," a British visitor told me on our trip. "We didn't want to check off the same animals you can see everywhere else."
Rare Sightings in the Bush
You aren't likely to spot lions in Liwonde, but you may see endangered cats such as the serval, which has a reddish-brown coat covered with black spots. On a recent game drive, visitors to the reserve were entranced by the sight of one of these nocturnal creatures pouncing on a rat. Not far away, a slinky relative of the mongoose called a genet was searching for prey.
Night drives, forbidden in many of Africa's national parks, are a highlight of a visit to Liwonde. In addition to large herds of impalas, reedbucks, and waterbucks, you may come across hungry hippos that have come out of the water to forage for food. If you're lucky, a baby might be trailing behind.
Another rare treat is a walking safari. A guide takes you into a secluded part of the reserve where a herd of black rhinoceroses has been relocated from South Africa's Kruger National Park. Following the animals' trail often takes hours. It's the only way, however, to see these shy creatures, which are frightened away by the sound of vehicles.
Sleeping with the Hippos
The heart of Liwonde is the Shire River, which runs nearly the length of the reserve. If you're staying at Mvuu Wilderness Lodge, the only accommodation in the reserve, you're probably going to spend a lot of time on the river and in the surrounding marshes. An early morning trip in one of the lodge's hand-hewn wooden boats often passes a herd of elephants that has come down to the river to cool off. Crocodiles are frequently spotted on the banks, lounging about in the sun.
Mvuu is the Chichewa word for hippopotamus, so it's no surprise that they make a frequent appearance at the camp. As you relax on your private veranda overlooking the lagoon, you'll often see them giving you the eye. The sound of these enormous creatures chomping on vegetation may be the last sound before you drift off to sleep.
Essentials
Getting There
Air Malawi flies between Johannesburg and Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, three times a week and between London and Lilongwe once a week.
South African Airways flies between Johannesburg and Lilongwe three times a week and between Johannesburg and Blantyre, in southern Malawi not far from the reserve, twice a week.
British Airways flies between London and Lilongwe once a week.
When to Go
The best time to visit Malawi is in the dry season from May through October, especially in September and October. The rainy season runs from November through April.
Where to Stay
The Mvuu Wilderness Lodge is the only place to stay inside the reserve. Each of the five spacious tents is comfortably furnished with two double beds, a writing desk, and cozy chairs facing the lagoon. Each has a private bath.
What It Will Cost
Rates at Mvuu Wilderness Lodge start at $230 per person per night. This includes lodging, meals, game drives, and transportation to the camp.
Contact
The Regional Tourism Organization of Southern Africa, better known as RETOSA, has plenty of information about Malawi and other countries in the region.
By Mark Sullivan Read more...
Not just eyes, but ears and occasionally a mouth that opens wide in an extravagant yawn. They belong to some of the hundreds of hippopotamuses that make their home here in the tranquil waters of Liwonde National Park. This little-known game reserve is one of the best reasons to visit the African nation of Malawi, a sliver of land bordered by Tanzania, Mozambique, and Zambia.
Although this tiny country is overshadowed by its better-known neighbors, Malawi is attracting more and more animal lovers. You can certainly find the so-called "big five" here - lions, leopards, elephants, buffaloes, and rhinoceroses - but national parks such as Liwonde are popular among those who aren't looking for a traditional safari.
"My wife and I were looking for something different," a British visitor told me on our trip. "We didn't want to check off the same animals you can see everywhere else."
Rare Sightings in the Bush
You aren't likely to spot lions in Liwonde, but you may see endangered cats such as the serval, which has a reddish-brown coat covered with black spots. On a recent game drive, visitors to the reserve were entranced by the sight of one of these nocturnal creatures pouncing on a rat. Not far away, a slinky relative of the mongoose called a genet was searching for prey.
Night drives, forbidden in many of Africa's national parks, are a highlight of a visit to Liwonde. In addition to large herds of impalas, reedbucks, and waterbucks, you may come across hungry hippos that have come out of the water to forage for food. If you're lucky, a baby might be trailing behind.
Another rare treat is a walking safari. A guide takes you into a secluded part of the reserve where a herd of black rhinoceroses has been relocated from South Africa's Kruger National Park. Following the animals' trail often takes hours. It's the only way, however, to see these shy creatures, which are frightened away by the sound of vehicles.
Sleeping with the Hippos
The heart of Liwonde is the Shire River, which runs nearly the length of the reserve. If you're staying at Mvuu Wilderness Lodge, the only accommodation in the reserve, you're probably going to spend a lot of time on the river and in the surrounding marshes. An early morning trip in one of the lodge's hand-hewn wooden boats often passes a herd of elephants that has come down to the river to cool off. Crocodiles are frequently spotted on the banks, lounging about in the sun.
Mvuu is the Chichewa word for hippopotamus, so it's no surprise that they make a frequent appearance at the camp. As you relax on your private veranda overlooking the lagoon, you'll often see them giving you the eye. The sound of these enormous creatures chomping on vegetation may be the last sound before you drift off to sleep.
Essentials
Getting There
Air Malawi flies between Johannesburg and Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, three times a week and between London and Lilongwe once a week.
South African Airways flies between Johannesburg and Lilongwe three times a week and between Johannesburg and Blantyre, in southern Malawi not far from the reserve, twice a week.
British Airways flies between London and Lilongwe once a week.
When to Go
The best time to visit Malawi is in the dry season from May through October, especially in September and October. The rainy season runs from November through April.
Where to Stay
The Mvuu Wilderness Lodge is the only place to stay inside the reserve. Each of the five spacious tents is comfortably furnished with two double beds, a writing desk, and cozy chairs facing the lagoon. Each has a private bath.
What It Will Cost
Rates at Mvuu Wilderness Lodge start at $230 per person per night. This includes lodging, meals, game drives, and transportation to the camp.
Contact
The Regional Tourism Organization of Southern Africa, better known as RETOSA, has plenty of information about Malawi and other countries in the region.
By Mark Sullivan Read more...
London on His MindFor travelers with limited time in London, a three-day itinerary that gets to the essence of the city would by necessity have to inc
Peter Ackroyd is a man obsessed by London. Of the 17 works of fiction and nonfiction he's produced over the past two decades, the principal subject has been this most diverse of European cities, its past, present, and future, its characters and politics, and, above all, its mysterious allure.
In recent years the London-based author has turned the heat up on his passion, turning out biographies on London luminaries Charles Dickens, William Blake, and Thomas More in addition to The Plato Papers, a futuristic novel set in 38th-century London. Last year, Ackroyd published what may be his magnum opus, London: The Biography, a 750-page trek through the history of his favorite city, from prehistory to the present.
Ackroyd's "biography" is hardly a conventional chronicle of people, places, and events. Rather, the book attempts to capture the experience of London by exploring specific themes in its history. The result is an engaging portrait of a city with its own laws of growth and change.
Recently chatted with Ackroyd about the book. The discussion ranged from little-known London neighborhoods to Celtic mythology to the "echoic" nature of the city.
Peter Ackroyd: Visitors should go to the City of London, and then cross London Bridge to Southwark. While in that neighborhood they should visit Southwark Cathedral and the Old Operating Theatre of St. Thomas's Hospital. They should also walk around Clerkenwell and Smithfield. They should see Spitalfields and perhaps go farther east to Limehouse.
What are some of the more interesting neighborhoods in and around London we don't ordinarily hear about?
There are many interesting neighborhoods, but I would recommend Clerkenwell, which has been the home of radical activity since the early 14th century.
What sort of radical activities?
For example, Wat Tyler, leader of the Peasants Revolt in 1381, encamped upon the Clerkenwell Green, and ever since that time it has been used by Chartists, Fenians, and trade unions to represent their causes. Visitors will find the Marx Memorial Library here. Also beside the Green is Sessions House, which was used for some of the most important trials of radicals in English history. To the south of the Green, down the famous Jerusalem Passage, lies the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, whose crypt holds medieval tombs, and just beside it is St. John's Gate, an ancient gateway. There is a "history trail" here for the casual visitor.
London's fires have become a part of city lore. They are referred to in books, songs, and have even been depicted in paintings. Where should visitors go to see the physical evidence of this legacy of "conflagration"?
London has burned to the ground many times but has always been resurrected, or, rather, has resurrected itself. There is very little physical evidence of the 1666 Great Fire of London, but anyone interested in that event should visit the Monument to it in the City of London, by Fish Hill, north of London Bridge. Those who wish to understand something of the appearance of London before the fire should visit Staple Inn along Holborn.
The griffin, a symbol from Celtic mythology, is a conspicuous image in London. What is the significance of this four-legged, winged beast?
The griffin is to be found upon the coinage of the Iceni tribe, which inhabited part of the area now known as Greater London. It has survived as the emblem of the city itself and is posted on all the boundaries of the City of London. It is an appropriate emblem, since the griffin was a legendary monster which guarded gold mines and buried treasure.
London appreciates popular culture -- James Bond, the Beatles, Chaucer's Canterbury Tales, punk rock. Is it fair to say that this has always been so?
From its inception, London has always manifested the signs of a native egalitarianism. In terms of popular culture, half the art and spectacle of London is derived from the life and art of the people. Handel caught an air from a whistling tradesman, Turner borrowed pictorial effects from pantomime scenery, and Blake borrowed scenes from theaters of the period.
London functioned for a thousand years under "its own laws of growth and change." Are these "laws" still governing the city today? Or has London been changed by globalization and the move toward a more united Europe?
London has not really been changed by globalization, since its financial pre-eminence has existed since it was first constructed as a trading port. It has been built by the twin imperatives of commerce and power. That is why it is in certain respects such a dark city. It retains its identity through centuries of change. So when architectural historians lament the building of new financial centers, they are repeating the criticisms of a thousands years. London has always been vandalized. It has always grown out of monetary speculation and greed.
In 1994, the Channel Tunnel opened, linking Britain and Europe. Does this connection to the continent signal the emergence of a new spirit in London?
London has always been a European city, and the building of the Channel tunnel will not necessarily change the city's identity. It has always been open to immigration, for example, and in part was created by immigrants. It has thrived by means of assimilation and adaptation. It can only survive by attracting new inhabitants, as if it were some living creature which needs to engorge fresh supplies.
Your book is not a chronology of people, places and events. Rather, it is a tour of images, sounds, smells, and lore. What did you hope to achieve with this unusual approach to writing about a city?
I did not want to write a conventional history of the city, since so many volumes have already been devoted to that theme. Instead I wanted to evoke and to capture the living experience of the metropolis, so pressing and multifarious, by concentrating upon various themes and metaphors. Also, I believed that I would be able to suggest that the city itself was a living organism with its own laws of growth and change. That is why it is a biography rather than a history.
What motivated you to write a "biography" of London?
I spent my childhood and most of my adult life in London. It has become in that sense the landscape of my imagination. My novels and biographies of Dickens, Blake, and Thomas More have been concerned with a line of London writers whom I call Cockney visionaries. In the novels themselves London seems to have become as much a character as any of the human agents, so in that sense all my previous books have directed me towards the writing of London: The Biography.
Many cities have seen their share of "flame and ruin," as you put it, Rome, St. Petersburg, Berlin, Dresden, Constantinople. What makes London special?
Of all capital cities, London is by common consent the most echoic. It has been continually inhabited for many thousands of years, and has relics of Druidic worship as well as of Roman and Saxon occupation. But it is not merely its longevity that is important. In my investigations of London I have been struck many times by what I call the territorial imperative at work in its streets and alleys, by which I mean that a certain area seems actively to guide or to determine the lives of those who live within its bounds. In that sense all its previous existences exist simultaneously, engendering a power that links the present with the past.
Resource: London Destination Guide Read more...
In recent years the London-based author has turned the heat up on his passion, turning out biographies on London luminaries Charles Dickens, William Blake, and Thomas More in addition to The Plato Papers, a futuristic novel set in 38th-century London. Last year, Ackroyd published what may be his magnum opus, London: The Biography, a 750-page trek through the history of his favorite city, from prehistory to the present.
Ackroyd's "biography" is hardly a conventional chronicle of people, places, and events. Rather, the book attempts to capture the experience of London by exploring specific themes in its history. The result is an engaging portrait of a city with its own laws of growth and change.
Recently chatted with Ackroyd about the book. The discussion ranged from little-known London neighborhoods to Celtic mythology to the "echoic" nature of the city.
Peter Ackroyd: Visitors should go to the City of London, and then cross London Bridge to Southwark. While in that neighborhood they should visit Southwark Cathedral and the Old Operating Theatre of St. Thomas's Hospital. They should also walk around Clerkenwell and Smithfield. They should see Spitalfields and perhaps go farther east to Limehouse.
What are some of the more interesting neighborhoods in and around London we don't ordinarily hear about?
There are many interesting neighborhoods, but I would recommend Clerkenwell, which has been the home of radical activity since the early 14th century.
What sort of radical activities?
For example, Wat Tyler, leader of the Peasants Revolt in 1381, encamped upon the Clerkenwell Green, and ever since that time it has been used by Chartists, Fenians, and trade unions to represent their causes. Visitors will find the Marx Memorial Library here. Also beside the Green is Sessions House, which was used for some of the most important trials of radicals in English history. To the south of the Green, down the famous Jerusalem Passage, lies the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, whose crypt holds medieval tombs, and just beside it is St. John's Gate, an ancient gateway. There is a "history trail" here for the casual visitor.
London's fires have become a part of city lore. They are referred to in books, songs, and have even been depicted in paintings. Where should visitors go to see the physical evidence of this legacy of "conflagration"?
London has burned to the ground many times but has always been resurrected, or, rather, has resurrected itself. There is very little physical evidence of the 1666 Great Fire of London, but anyone interested in that event should visit the Monument to it in the City of London, by Fish Hill, north of London Bridge. Those who wish to understand something of the appearance of London before the fire should visit Staple Inn along Holborn.
The griffin, a symbol from Celtic mythology, is a conspicuous image in London. What is the significance of this four-legged, winged beast?
The griffin is to be found upon the coinage of the Iceni tribe, which inhabited part of the area now known as Greater London. It has survived as the emblem of the city itself and is posted on all the boundaries of the City of London. It is an appropriate emblem, since the griffin was a legendary monster which guarded gold mines and buried treasure.
London appreciates popular culture -- James Bond, the Beatles, Chaucer's Canterbury Tales, punk rock. Is it fair to say that this has always been so?
From its inception, London has always manifested the signs of a native egalitarianism. In terms of popular culture, half the art and spectacle of London is derived from the life and art of the people. Handel caught an air from a whistling tradesman, Turner borrowed pictorial effects from pantomime scenery, and Blake borrowed scenes from theaters of the period.
London functioned for a thousand years under "its own laws of growth and change." Are these "laws" still governing the city today? Or has London been changed by globalization and the move toward a more united Europe?
London has not really been changed by globalization, since its financial pre-eminence has existed since it was first constructed as a trading port. It has been built by the twin imperatives of commerce and power. That is why it is in certain respects such a dark city. It retains its identity through centuries of change. So when architectural historians lament the building of new financial centers, they are repeating the criticisms of a thousands years. London has always been vandalized. It has always grown out of monetary speculation and greed.
In 1994, the Channel Tunnel opened, linking Britain and Europe. Does this connection to the continent signal the emergence of a new spirit in London?
London has always been a European city, and the building of the Channel tunnel will not necessarily change the city's identity. It has always been open to immigration, for example, and in part was created by immigrants. It has thrived by means of assimilation and adaptation. It can only survive by attracting new inhabitants, as if it were some living creature which needs to engorge fresh supplies.
Your book is not a chronology of people, places and events. Rather, it is a tour of images, sounds, smells, and lore. What did you hope to achieve with this unusual approach to writing about a city?
I did not want to write a conventional history of the city, since so many volumes have already been devoted to that theme. Instead I wanted to evoke and to capture the living experience of the metropolis, so pressing and multifarious, by concentrating upon various themes and metaphors. Also, I believed that I would be able to suggest that the city itself was a living organism with its own laws of growth and change. That is why it is a biography rather than a history.
What motivated you to write a "biography" of London?
I spent my childhood and most of my adult life in London. It has become in that sense the landscape of my imagination. My novels and biographies of Dickens, Blake, and Thomas More have been concerned with a line of London writers whom I call Cockney visionaries. In the novels themselves London seems to have become as much a character as any of the human agents, so in that sense all my previous books have directed me towards the writing of London: The Biography.
Many cities have seen their share of "flame and ruin," as you put it, Rome, St. Petersburg, Berlin, Dresden, Constantinople. What makes London special?
Of all capital cities, London is by common consent the most echoic. It has been continually inhabited for many thousands of years, and has relics of Druidic worship as well as of Roman and Saxon occupation. But it is not merely its longevity that is important. In my investigations of London I have been struck many times by what I call the territorial imperative at work in its streets and alleys, by which I mean that a certain area seems actively to guide or to determine the lives of those who live within its bounds. In that sense all its previous existences exist simultaneously, engendering a power that links the present with the past.
Resource: London Destination Guide Read more...
Monday, January 26, 2009
The Rain in Machu Picchu
The wisps of clouds that started floating in this morning are thickening, and I'm worried it might rain. I've been waiting to see this place for years, ever since I posted an old calendar picture of Peru's Huayna Picchu -- that famous, oft-photographed mountain that towers over the ruins of Machu Picchu -- on my office wall, and this is my one day to do it. I've woken up at a jarring 4:30 AM to catch the 6 AM train from Cuzco for the 3 ½-hour trip to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu. I've stumbled half asleep through a warren of vendor stalls, with each new peddler more persistent than the last at hawking brightly colored mantas (woven textiles used to wrap and carry items), T-shirts advertising Inca Cola, and carved gourds. I've sat on a crowded bus that went round and round a mountain road no wider, it seemed, than the bus itself at some points.
And now that I'm finally here, looking out on the ruins, I can barely take it all in. For starters, Machu Picchu, a well-laid-out settlement shaped by the geography of the mountain into which it was built, is much larger than I expected. Among the remnants are grassy plazas, precisely designed and well-preserved stone huts and temples, ritual bathing areas, stepped terraces used for farming, and the occasional llama. It's April, which means the immense mountains circling the city are carpeted with vibrant green cover following the rainy season. But it also means somewhat unpredictable weather, and I've only just started to take stock of this remarkable place when thunder begins rumbling ominously over the chatting of tourists and guides, including Julio, our guide from LanChile Vacations.
The air is heavy with moisture but it's not raining yet, and I listen as Julio points out the skill of the Incan architects, who carved and fitted together the often massive stone blocks of these structures without the use of iron tools. Julio leads us through different classes of architecture: the simple one-room dwellings of rough stones, probably used for the lower classes; and the more important, and therefore more elaborate and refined, king's palace and temples. The remains of several temples sit up high on the Sacred Plaza, and it is here that we pause to take in views of the plazas and structures below and the mountains in the distance, all framed elegantly by the trapezoidal windows of the Temple of the Three Windows.
By this time the early morning fluffy wisps have formed a slate-color bank of clouds that hovers over the distant mountains. Soon all is gray and I can no longer separate the sky from the clouds. The wind is gentle but persistent, intent on sending my hair snaking across my camera lens every time I try to take a photograph. And then it begins to rain, not heavily, but enough to send people ducking for cover among the largely roofless ruins, a few of which have luckily been covered with thatch to suggest what the structures would have looked like when inhabited.
I find shelter under an enormous boulder that angles up and out 45 degrees from the ground. Suddenly, all is silent except for the gentle, steady rain: no more tour guides instructing, no more people laughing and talking, no more cameras clicking and noisily rewinding film. With everyone having scuttled off for shelter, the place suddenly seems empty. And after a few minutes of sitting like this, crouched under a boulder, I realize that this is exactly how you should see Machu Picchu -- silenced by the elements that make up so much of its beauty. The rain forces you to sit quietly and try to take it in, and there's so much to take in. "This place is alive," Julio said when we first entered, and now, in the stillness brought by rain, I can see what he means. This place is vibrant, mystical, awesome -- both for the ruins that speak of so much skill and history, as well as for the setting of lush mountains, powerful and fierce, that surround you whichever way you turn.
The Lost City of the Incas
A sense of mystery envelops Machu Picchu as well. Until this city was found in the early 20th century, nobody even knew it had been lost. No written records of its presence existed: the Incas had no system of writing, and the Spanish never discovered this place, a lucky thing since the conquistadors would often raze Incan structures, sometimes using stones recovered for their own constructions and even building over the Incan foundations. When American explorer Hiram Bingham "discovered" the ruins in 1911 (locals already knew of the ruins and led Bingham to them), he initially thought he had found Vilcabamba, the last Incan holdout against the Spanish.
The remains of Vilcabamba, however, have been identified elsewhere, and today no one knows exactly what purpose Machu Picchu served. It may have been an estate of Pachacuti, the great Incan emperor, a religious and ceremonial center, or a combination of the two. It's not even known when exactly Machu Picchu was built, though estimates put the city's heyday in the mid-15th century. Even the names used to describe this place are new, the old names having been lost with time -- Machu Picchu, the modern-day name for the ruins, translates into "old mountain." It is also not known when or why Machu Picchu was abandoned -- did the residents leave long before the Spanish conquest in the early 16th century, or was it only with the coming of the Spanish that they fled, abandoning the city to be swallowed by vegetation and hidden for hundreds of years?
The mystery adds to Machu Picchu's appeal, hinting at a fascinating past that cannot be known. It's a bit like reading a compelling story only to find that the last few pages are blank, the story unfinished, or rather the end of the story is there, but the beginning is missing. When the rain stops, the sky peeks through occasional breaks in the clouds, and we move on. There's still so much to see, and I only have a few hours left here.
When to Visit Machu Picchu
Most visitors to Machu Picchu come during the dry season, approximately May through September, which means sunny skies but also large crowds. There are still ways to find a moment of silence during this time, even without the forced solemnity that comes with a downpour. Plan to spend two days here so you can meander slowly around the ruins, exploring every corner without trying to see as much as possible in a few short hours. If you're lucky, you may be able to snag one of the only 31 rooms in the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge, which puts you right near the ruins and means you can enjoy peace long after most of the tourists have gone. It's also possible to lodge down in Aguas Calientes, so you won't have to rush around on the same schedule as the many tourists taking the return train to Cuzco. The Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, in Aguas Calientes near the road leading up to the ruins, has lovely stone bungalows set in cloud forest.
Even if, and especially if, a two-day visit isn't possible, find a patch of grass or slab of stone all to yourself. Put your camera away; no photograph will ever do this place justice anyway. Find a moment of stillness. Take it all in.
Contacts
LanChile Vacations (tel. 877/219-0345, www.lanchilevacations.com) can custom-design trips for individuals and groups traveling to Cuzco, Machu Picchu, and other areas of Peru.
Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel (Aguas Calientes, tel. 084/211-122; 01/610-0404 reservations, www.inkaterra.com.pe).
Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge (Machu Picchu, tel. 51/84-21-1039 or 51/84-21-1038, fax 51/84-21-1053, www.orient-express.com).
On her next trip to Peru, Associate Editor Deborah Kaufman plans to spend at least two days exploring Machu Picchu, rain or shine. She has edited Fodor's guides to Argentina, Vietnam, and Japan, among other titles.
By Deborah Kaufman Read more...
And now that I'm finally here, looking out on the ruins, I can barely take it all in. For starters, Machu Picchu, a well-laid-out settlement shaped by the geography of the mountain into which it was built, is much larger than I expected. Among the remnants are grassy plazas, precisely designed and well-preserved stone huts and temples, ritual bathing areas, stepped terraces used for farming, and the occasional llama. It's April, which means the immense mountains circling the city are carpeted with vibrant green cover following the rainy season. But it also means somewhat unpredictable weather, and I've only just started to take stock of this remarkable place when thunder begins rumbling ominously over the chatting of tourists and guides, including Julio, our guide from LanChile Vacations.
The air is heavy with moisture but it's not raining yet, and I listen as Julio points out the skill of the Incan architects, who carved and fitted together the often massive stone blocks of these structures without the use of iron tools. Julio leads us through different classes of architecture: the simple one-room dwellings of rough stones, probably used for the lower classes; and the more important, and therefore more elaborate and refined, king's palace and temples. The remains of several temples sit up high on the Sacred Plaza, and it is here that we pause to take in views of the plazas and structures below and the mountains in the distance, all framed elegantly by the trapezoidal windows of the Temple of the Three Windows.
By this time the early morning fluffy wisps have formed a slate-color bank of clouds that hovers over the distant mountains. Soon all is gray and I can no longer separate the sky from the clouds. The wind is gentle but persistent, intent on sending my hair snaking across my camera lens every time I try to take a photograph. And then it begins to rain, not heavily, but enough to send people ducking for cover among the largely roofless ruins, a few of which have luckily been covered with thatch to suggest what the structures would have looked like when inhabited.
I find shelter under an enormous boulder that angles up and out 45 degrees from the ground. Suddenly, all is silent except for the gentle, steady rain: no more tour guides instructing, no more people laughing and talking, no more cameras clicking and noisily rewinding film. With everyone having scuttled off for shelter, the place suddenly seems empty. And after a few minutes of sitting like this, crouched under a boulder, I realize that this is exactly how you should see Machu Picchu -- silenced by the elements that make up so much of its beauty. The rain forces you to sit quietly and try to take it in, and there's so much to take in. "This place is alive," Julio said when we first entered, and now, in the stillness brought by rain, I can see what he means. This place is vibrant, mystical, awesome -- both for the ruins that speak of so much skill and history, as well as for the setting of lush mountains, powerful and fierce, that surround you whichever way you turn.
The Lost City of the Incas
A sense of mystery envelops Machu Picchu as well. Until this city was found in the early 20th century, nobody even knew it had been lost. No written records of its presence existed: the Incas had no system of writing, and the Spanish never discovered this place, a lucky thing since the conquistadors would often raze Incan structures, sometimes using stones recovered for their own constructions and even building over the Incan foundations. When American explorer Hiram Bingham "discovered" the ruins in 1911 (locals already knew of the ruins and led Bingham to them), he initially thought he had found Vilcabamba, the last Incan holdout against the Spanish.
The remains of Vilcabamba, however, have been identified elsewhere, and today no one knows exactly what purpose Machu Picchu served. It may have been an estate of Pachacuti, the great Incan emperor, a religious and ceremonial center, or a combination of the two. It's not even known when exactly Machu Picchu was built, though estimates put the city's heyday in the mid-15th century. Even the names used to describe this place are new, the old names having been lost with time -- Machu Picchu, the modern-day name for the ruins, translates into "old mountain." It is also not known when or why Machu Picchu was abandoned -- did the residents leave long before the Spanish conquest in the early 16th century, or was it only with the coming of the Spanish that they fled, abandoning the city to be swallowed by vegetation and hidden for hundreds of years?
The mystery adds to Machu Picchu's appeal, hinting at a fascinating past that cannot be known. It's a bit like reading a compelling story only to find that the last few pages are blank, the story unfinished, or rather the end of the story is there, but the beginning is missing. When the rain stops, the sky peeks through occasional breaks in the clouds, and we move on. There's still so much to see, and I only have a few hours left here.
When to Visit Machu Picchu
Most visitors to Machu Picchu come during the dry season, approximately May through September, which means sunny skies but also large crowds. There are still ways to find a moment of silence during this time, even without the forced solemnity that comes with a downpour. Plan to spend two days here so you can meander slowly around the ruins, exploring every corner without trying to see as much as possible in a few short hours. If you're lucky, you may be able to snag one of the only 31 rooms in the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge, which puts you right near the ruins and means you can enjoy peace long after most of the tourists have gone. It's also possible to lodge down in Aguas Calientes, so you won't have to rush around on the same schedule as the many tourists taking the return train to Cuzco. The Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, in Aguas Calientes near the road leading up to the ruins, has lovely stone bungalows set in cloud forest.
Even if, and especially if, a two-day visit isn't possible, find a patch of grass or slab of stone all to yourself. Put your camera away; no photograph will ever do this place justice anyway. Find a moment of stillness. Take it all in.
Contacts
LanChile Vacations (tel. 877/219-0345, www.lanchilevacations.com) can custom-design trips for individuals and groups traveling to Cuzco, Machu Picchu, and other areas of Peru.
Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel (Aguas Calientes, tel. 084/211-122; 01/610-0404 reservations, www.inkaterra.com.pe).
Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge (Machu Picchu, tel. 51/84-21-1039 or 51/84-21-1038, fax 51/84-21-1053, www.orient-express.com).
On her next trip to Peru, Associate Editor Deborah Kaufman plans to spend at least two days exploring Machu Picchu, rain or shine. She has edited Fodor's guides to Argentina, Vietnam, and Japan, among other titles.
By Deborah Kaufman Read more...
The Natural Riches of the Galápagos Islands
As the motor boat sputters toward Rabida Island, you hear the raspy bark of a sea lion. You scan the rocky beach, hoping one or two of the creatures will come close enough for you to take a picture. But as you step onto the rust-color sand, you realize that what you thought were rocks are actually dozens of sea lions basking in the sun. A few glance in your direction, but most seem unconcerned that you are standing only a few feet away.
This nonchalance is common among the animals of the Galápagos Islands, the chain of volcanic islands that lies roughly 620 miles off the coast of Ecuador. Because of the lack of predators here, most animals don't have the slightest fear of humans. It's not out of the ordinary for a vermilion flycatcher to peck at your shoelaces or for a land iguana to step over your camera bag as it seeks a place in the sun.
Later in the afternoon, when you grab a snorkel and step into the ocean, some baby sea lions get curious. Soon they are swimming alongside you, occasionally staring into your mask or nipping at your fins. One rambunctious youngster even gives the back of your bathing suit a sharp tug, making you feel like the Coppertone girl. The pup's mother cries sharply, and he quickly swims back to shore to join her.
Most people come to the Galápagos to see the amazing array of animals, many of them found nowhere else on earth. The most famous visitor to the islands, the naturalist Charles Darwin, found inspiration here for his groundbreaking treatise, The Origin of Species. "I never dreamed," he wrote in his memoirs, "that islands, about 50 or 60 miles apart, and most of them in sight of each other, formed of precisely the same rocks, placed under a quite similar climate, rising to a nearly equal height, would have been differently tenanted." Darwin postulated that the slightly different conditions on each of the islands had caused animals and plants to eventually develop into completely different species.
A Naturalist's Dream
The Galápagos chain includes more than a dozen islands whose rocky terrain is constantly being shaped and reshaped by volcanic activity. Since 1835, when Darwin came ashore, more than 60 major eruptions have been recorded, including two during the past decade on Fernandina and Isabela Islands, on the archipelago's western edge.
The islands are very close together, but each is unique. Rough volcanic rock, for example, rings Santiago, where dozens of marine iguanas are often seen nibbling on algae the receding tide has left exposed. In the resulting tide pools you can find snails, crabs, or even a stranded octopus. Bartolomé, on the other hand, is extremely sandy; its inhospitable landscape means that only a few animals, among them the shy Galápagos penguin, come ashore.
As Darwin noted, animals of the same species sometimes differ from island to island. The odd-looking birds called blue-footed boobies are common on Isabela, for instance, but their red-footed cousins are more numerous on Genovesa. Land iguanas are a buttery yellow on Plaza Sur, but on Santa Cruz they are bright orange. Marine iguanas the color of charcoal can be found on just about every island, but on Española they are called Christmas iguanas because they turn vivid shades of red and green in December.
Darwin's theories are especially intriguing when you consider the giant tortoises. The curve of their shells varies greatly from island to island. You can easily distinguish a tortoise that comes from San Cristóbal from one that comes from Santa Fé. Charles Darwin Research Station (tel. 05/526-146 or 05/526-147) on Santa Cruz provides the opportunity to view these sad-eyed creatures up close.
Under the Sea
Some of the most amazing Galápagos sights occur below sea level. From the comfort of a boat, you can watch sea turtles swimming just offshore, and dolphins and other creatures also make surprise appearances. With a mask and snorkel, you can spy starfish as big as dinner plates, among them the chocolate-chip sea star, so named because its yellowish body is dotted with brown. Sea urchins abound, and if you're lucky, you'll spot a moray eel before it darts back into its hole.
Along the sandy bottom lurk the spotted ray and the eagle ray. Although the sight of them is terrifying, the sharks have little interest in humans, content, it seems, to snack on the huge schools of fish circling the islands.
Seeing the Islands
Few visitors ventured to the Galápagos until 1959, when they were declared a national park. Not even five decades later, the islands must cope with 100,000 visitors each year. Concerned that the steadily increasing number of tourists will damage the fragile ecosystem, the Ecuadorian government has restricted access to most of the islands, which can only be seen with a guide licensed through the Galápagos National Park Service.
Except for short jeep excursions from one of the islands' four villages, the only way to see the Galápagos is by boat. The vessels cruising these waters range from yachts with room for less than a dozen people to cruise ships that can hold 100 or more. Journeys last anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, although most take about seven days.
Amenities vary from vessel to vessel. The larger boats, such as the Galápagos Explorer II, operated by Canodros, and the Galápagos Legend, run by Kleintours, are veritable floating hotels with every amenity from plush lounges to swimming pools. Bigger isn't always better, though. These boats often have so many people on board that you may be asked to wear a name tag. And going to the islands can be a hassle when 100 passengers are clamoring to get into the small boats that carry you ashore.
Smaller yachts offer a more intimate experience. You get to know the other passengers well, and the captain often dines with everyone on board. Three ships run by Ecoventuras - Eric, Letty, and Flamingo I - have spacious cabins and polished teak interiors trimmed with shiny brass fittings. Cabins on the upper decks have windows you can fling open to catch the breeze.
Another plus on yachts: the guides have the time to explore a topic that interests you, whether it's orcas or ornithology. During a recent voyage on the Letty, naturalist Raúl Salazar Herrera delighted two young girls when he described how a Sally Lightfoot crab, the brilliant orange species crawling around all the islands, sheds its shell.
Essentials
Getting There
LanChile flies from Newark, New Jersey, to Guayaquil, Ecuador, which serves as a gateway to the Galápagos. Flights arrive early in the morning, allowing you to transfer immediately to a flight to the Galápagos. Continental flies from Newark and Houston. American flies from Miami.
Ecuador's Tame is the only airline that flies to the Galápagos. Flights leave once or twice daily from Guayaquil for Baltra, a tiny island just north of Santa Cruz. The flight takes roughly three hours and costs $350 to $400 round-trip.
When to Go
People head to the Galápagos all year, but the best weather is generally from May through June and November through December. The high seasons, when most people visit, are from November through March and from mid-June through August. At other times of the year you are likely to find discounted rates on some vessels.
What It Will Cost
The price tag per person for a double cabin on a three-night, luxury-ship cruise can run from $765 to $1,300 in low season and from $880 to $1,600 in high season. Off-peak rates usually apply from May through mid-June, September through mid-October, and early to mid-December.
To save money you can wait until you arrive on the islands and try to bargain for a cheaper boat fare, as operators sell last-minute tickets at the airport. The risk of doing this, however, is that you might not find an available boat, especially during peak season.
All visitors to the Galápagos must pay a $100 entrance fee, in cash only. The money is earmarked for conservation efforts.
Contacts
Canodros (tel. 04/228-5711 in Guayaquil, 800/327-9854 in the U.S., www.canodros.com).
Ecoventuras (tel. 800/633-7972 in the U.S., www.ecoventura.com).
Galápagos Conservation Trust (5 Derby St., London W1J 7AB, 207/629-5049, www.gct.org).
GalápagosOnline (www.galapagosonline.com).
Kleintours (tel. 02/243-0345 in Quito, 888/505-5346 in the U.S., www.kleintours.com).
Traveling to the Galápagos was a dream come true for Mark Sullivan, editor of Fodor's South America. He also edited the recently released Fodor's Chile and the upcoming Fodor's Kenya and Tanzania. Read more...
This nonchalance is common among the animals of the Galápagos Islands, the chain of volcanic islands that lies roughly 620 miles off the coast of Ecuador. Because of the lack of predators here, most animals don't have the slightest fear of humans. It's not out of the ordinary for a vermilion flycatcher to peck at your shoelaces or for a land iguana to step over your camera bag as it seeks a place in the sun.
Later in the afternoon, when you grab a snorkel and step into the ocean, some baby sea lions get curious. Soon they are swimming alongside you, occasionally staring into your mask or nipping at your fins. One rambunctious youngster even gives the back of your bathing suit a sharp tug, making you feel like the Coppertone girl. The pup's mother cries sharply, and he quickly swims back to shore to join her.
Most people come to the Galápagos to see the amazing array of animals, many of them found nowhere else on earth. The most famous visitor to the islands, the naturalist Charles Darwin, found inspiration here for his groundbreaking treatise, The Origin of Species. "I never dreamed," he wrote in his memoirs, "that islands, about 50 or 60 miles apart, and most of them in sight of each other, formed of precisely the same rocks, placed under a quite similar climate, rising to a nearly equal height, would have been differently tenanted." Darwin postulated that the slightly different conditions on each of the islands had caused animals and plants to eventually develop into completely different species.
A Naturalist's Dream
The Galápagos chain includes more than a dozen islands whose rocky terrain is constantly being shaped and reshaped by volcanic activity. Since 1835, when Darwin came ashore, more than 60 major eruptions have been recorded, including two during the past decade on Fernandina and Isabela Islands, on the archipelago's western edge.
The islands are very close together, but each is unique. Rough volcanic rock, for example, rings Santiago, where dozens of marine iguanas are often seen nibbling on algae the receding tide has left exposed. In the resulting tide pools you can find snails, crabs, or even a stranded octopus. Bartolomé, on the other hand, is extremely sandy; its inhospitable landscape means that only a few animals, among them the shy Galápagos penguin, come ashore.
As Darwin noted, animals of the same species sometimes differ from island to island. The odd-looking birds called blue-footed boobies are common on Isabela, for instance, but their red-footed cousins are more numerous on Genovesa. Land iguanas are a buttery yellow on Plaza Sur, but on Santa Cruz they are bright orange. Marine iguanas the color of charcoal can be found on just about every island, but on Española they are called Christmas iguanas because they turn vivid shades of red and green in December.
Darwin's theories are especially intriguing when you consider the giant tortoises. The curve of their shells varies greatly from island to island. You can easily distinguish a tortoise that comes from San Cristóbal from one that comes from Santa Fé. Charles Darwin Research Station (tel. 05/526-146 or 05/526-147) on Santa Cruz provides the opportunity to view these sad-eyed creatures up close.
Under the Sea
Some of the most amazing Galápagos sights occur below sea level. From the comfort of a boat, you can watch sea turtles swimming just offshore, and dolphins and other creatures also make surprise appearances. With a mask and snorkel, you can spy starfish as big as dinner plates, among them the chocolate-chip sea star, so named because its yellowish body is dotted with brown. Sea urchins abound, and if you're lucky, you'll spot a moray eel before it darts back into its hole.
Along the sandy bottom lurk the spotted ray and the eagle ray. Although the sight of them is terrifying, the sharks have little interest in humans, content, it seems, to snack on the huge schools of fish circling the islands.
Seeing the Islands
Few visitors ventured to the Galápagos until 1959, when they were declared a national park. Not even five decades later, the islands must cope with 100,000 visitors each year. Concerned that the steadily increasing number of tourists will damage the fragile ecosystem, the Ecuadorian government has restricted access to most of the islands, which can only be seen with a guide licensed through the Galápagos National Park Service.
Except for short jeep excursions from one of the islands' four villages, the only way to see the Galápagos is by boat. The vessels cruising these waters range from yachts with room for less than a dozen people to cruise ships that can hold 100 or more. Journeys last anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, although most take about seven days.
Amenities vary from vessel to vessel. The larger boats, such as the Galápagos Explorer II, operated by Canodros, and the Galápagos Legend, run by Kleintours, are veritable floating hotels with every amenity from plush lounges to swimming pools. Bigger isn't always better, though. These boats often have so many people on board that you may be asked to wear a name tag. And going to the islands can be a hassle when 100 passengers are clamoring to get into the small boats that carry you ashore.
Smaller yachts offer a more intimate experience. You get to know the other passengers well, and the captain often dines with everyone on board. Three ships run by Ecoventuras - Eric, Letty, and Flamingo I - have spacious cabins and polished teak interiors trimmed with shiny brass fittings. Cabins on the upper decks have windows you can fling open to catch the breeze.
Another plus on yachts: the guides have the time to explore a topic that interests you, whether it's orcas or ornithology. During a recent voyage on the Letty, naturalist Raúl Salazar Herrera delighted two young girls when he described how a Sally Lightfoot crab, the brilliant orange species crawling around all the islands, sheds its shell.
Essentials
Getting There
LanChile flies from Newark, New Jersey, to Guayaquil, Ecuador, which serves as a gateway to the Galápagos. Flights arrive early in the morning, allowing you to transfer immediately to a flight to the Galápagos. Continental flies from Newark and Houston. American flies from Miami.
Ecuador's Tame is the only airline that flies to the Galápagos. Flights leave once or twice daily from Guayaquil for Baltra, a tiny island just north of Santa Cruz. The flight takes roughly three hours and costs $350 to $400 round-trip.
When to Go
People head to the Galápagos all year, but the best weather is generally from May through June and November through December. The high seasons, when most people visit, are from November through March and from mid-June through August. At other times of the year you are likely to find discounted rates on some vessels.
What It Will Cost
The price tag per person for a double cabin on a three-night, luxury-ship cruise can run from $765 to $1,300 in low season and from $880 to $1,600 in high season. Off-peak rates usually apply from May through mid-June, September through mid-October, and early to mid-December.
To save money you can wait until you arrive on the islands and try to bargain for a cheaper boat fare, as operators sell last-minute tickets at the airport. The risk of doing this, however, is that you might not find an available boat, especially during peak season.
All visitors to the Galápagos must pay a $100 entrance fee, in cash only. The money is earmarked for conservation efforts.
Contacts
Canodros (tel. 04/228-5711 in Guayaquil, 800/327-9854 in the U.S., www.canodros.com).
Ecoventuras (tel. 800/633-7972 in the U.S., www.ecoventura.com).
Galápagos Conservation Trust (5 Derby St., London W1J 7AB, 207/629-5049, www.gct.org).
GalápagosOnline (www.galapagosonline.com).
Kleintours (tel. 02/243-0345 in Quito, 888/505-5346 in the U.S., www.kleintours.com).
Traveling to the Galápagos was a dream come true for Mark Sullivan, editor of Fodor's South America. He also edited the recently released Fodor's Chile and the upcoming Fodor's Kenya and Tanzania. Read more...
Movies Made in Wyoming
Wyoming has been a setting for movie-making from the industry's earliest days. Some films have celebrated such locales as Devil's Tower (Close Encounters of the Third Kind; 1977), Hole-in-the-Wall (Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid; 1969), and Casper (Starship Troopers; 1997 and The Hellfighters; 1968), but the principal location has been the exceptionally photogenic scenery of Jackson Hole.
Some of these Jackson Hole films have been easily forgettable horse operas, equally forgettable sequels such as Rocky IV (1985), or silly romances such as The Cowboy and the Lady (1922), starring the ill-fated Mary Miles Minter. She reclined in a sort of Arabian tent at the foot of the Tetons and received the peasantry there with royal condescension. Tom Mix's 1925 oater was no more memorable. Much less forgettable, in Jackson Hole at least, was The Big Trail (1930), an epic production that turned the economics of Teton County upside down and was a major flop. However, it served its purpose. It introduced to the public the handsome, if not very animated, features of John Wayne. The West and Wayne were pals from then on.
Shane starred Alan Ladd and was shot in Jackson Hole in 1951. During the same summer as Shane, two other films were made in the Hole: Jubal, with Glenn Ford, and The Big Sky, with Kirk Douglas. These three rather exceptional shootings were balanced by the egregious Spencer's Mountain of 1963, which attempted to graft the Appalachian tale full of moonshiners and religious revivals onto Wyoming scenery. Henry Fonda did his best in this one.
The roster of male stars who have worked in Jackson Hole also includes such stars as Charlton Heston, Clint Eastwood, and Wallace Beery. Among heroines, only Jean Arthur seems to have made much of a hit in the Hole. It is a man's world, from the movie-making point of view. A nice little TV series, "The Monroes," was shot there in 1970, as was footage for the popular but short-lived TV series, the "Young Indiana Jones Chronicles," 1991-93.
Somewhat different was the presence in the Hole of Western comedian Wallace Beery, who became an annual summer visitor and obtrusive local personality in Jackson bars. He arrived by plane on the flats near Jenny Lake in the late 1930s and put up a raffish pseudo-dude ranch called the Elbo, where he chased the cook around the kitchen. He then settled into his own summer place on Jackson Lake, where he made various forgettable films. His most spectacular public appearance was a much photographed ride across the flats to protest the creation of Jackson Hole National Monument, in 1943. This was supposed to be in defense of the rights of the range.
By Nathaniel Burt
Nathaniel Burt is a composer and writer whose published works include poetry, fiction, and non-fiction. He is the author of the book Jackson Hole Journal. The preceding article was excerpted from Compass American Guides: Wyoming, 3rd edition. Read more...
Some of these Jackson Hole films have been easily forgettable horse operas, equally forgettable sequels such as Rocky IV (1985), or silly romances such as The Cowboy and the Lady (1922), starring the ill-fated Mary Miles Minter. She reclined in a sort of Arabian tent at the foot of the Tetons and received the peasantry there with royal condescension. Tom Mix's 1925 oater was no more memorable. Much less forgettable, in Jackson Hole at least, was The Big Trail (1930), an epic production that turned the economics of Teton County upside down and was a major flop. However, it served its purpose. It introduced to the public the handsome, if not very animated, features of John Wayne. The West and Wayne were pals from then on.
Shane starred Alan Ladd and was shot in Jackson Hole in 1951. During the same summer as Shane, two other films were made in the Hole: Jubal, with Glenn Ford, and The Big Sky, with Kirk Douglas. These three rather exceptional shootings were balanced by the egregious Spencer's Mountain of 1963, which attempted to graft the Appalachian tale full of moonshiners and religious revivals onto Wyoming scenery. Henry Fonda did his best in this one.
The roster of male stars who have worked in Jackson Hole also includes such stars as Charlton Heston, Clint Eastwood, and Wallace Beery. Among heroines, only Jean Arthur seems to have made much of a hit in the Hole. It is a man's world, from the movie-making point of view. A nice little TV series, "The Monroes," was shot there in 1970, as was footage for the popular but short-lived TV series, the "Young Indiana Jones Chronicles," 1991-93.
Somewhat different was the presence in the Hole of Western comedian Wallace Beery, who became an annual summer visitor and obtrusive local personality in Jackson bars. He arrived by plane on the flats near Jenny Lake in the late 1930s and put up a raffish pseudo-dude ranch called the Elbo, where he chased the cook around the kitchen. He then settled into his own summer place on Jackson Lake, where he made various forgettable films. His most spectacular public appearance was a much photographed ride across the flats to protest the creation of Jackson Hole National Monument, in 1943. This was supposed to be in defense of the rights of the range.
By Nathaniel Burt
Nathaniel Burt is a composer and writer whose published works include poetry, fiction, and non-fiction. He is the author of the book Jackson Hole Journal. The preceding article was excerpted from Compass American Guides: Wyoming, 3rd edition. Read more...
Literary Baltimore
Baltimore does not belong to one writer. Instead, this southernmost of northern cities belongs to many, from Francis Scott Key, who penned the words to the national anthem after watching the bombardment of Ft. McHenry during the War of 1812, to Anne Tyler, a contemporary writer who captures the quirkiness of Baltimore and its inhabitants in novels such as The Accidental Tourist.
During the past two centuries, Baltimore has been home---sometimes only briefly---to writers such as Edgar Allan Poe, H. L. Mencken, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Upton Sinclair, Gertrude Stein, Dashiell Hammett, and Russell Baker, the New York Times columnist who recounted his Baltimore years in the Pulitzer Prize--winning Growing Up and its successor, Good Times.
Perhaps the most fitting place to explore remnants of the city's literary history is the Mount Vernon neighborhood, which hosts the annual Baltimore Book Festival each September. The two-day event celebrates books, writers, publishers, and storytellers. Begin in the heart of Mount Vernon at the Washington Monument, where the hearty can climb 228 steps to catch a glimpse of the Baltimore skyline and the lovely parks, museums, and homes surrounding the memorial.
Across from the monument entrance, at the corner of East Mount Vernon Place and South Washington Place, is Mount Vernon Place Methodist Church. Built in 1873, the church sits on the site where Francis Scott Key died in 1843. A plaque on the exterior of the church notes his death. On the other side of the monument, on West Mount Vernon Place, are two important cultural institutions, the Peabody Conservatory of Music and the Peabody Library. The library has more than 250,000 books, the oldest dating to 1470. Its marble court is often called the most beautiful room in Baltimore.
At 716 North Washington Place near Madison Street is the former hotel, The Stafford, where F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife, Zelda, stayed while she was being treated for mental illness at Johns Hopkins University. Fitzgerald later lived in a town house at 1307 Park Avenue, a few blocks west of the hotel, where he finished his classic novel Tender is the Night. Today a plaque notes the former resident.
Nearly three blocks west, at 12 Madison Street, is the 19th-century home of John Pendleton Kennedy, a best-selling novelist of the 1820s whose works many believe helped invent the myth of the Old South, a world of gentility and knights without armor. A congressman and Navy secretary, Kennedy also oversaw the creation of Baltimore's Peabody Institute.
A block south of Kennedy's home is the Maryland Historical Society Museum and Library of Maryland, at 201 W. Monument Street, which contains the original manuscript of "The Star-Spangled Banner." East of the historical society at 704 Cathedral Street, H. L. Mencken, the "sage of Baltimore," lived on the third floor with his wife, Sara Haardt. The iconoclastic Mencken, one of the most influential journalists of the early to mid-20th century, was well known for his razor-sharp political writing and literary criticism. He also wrote a monumental study called The American Language.
Three other important literary sites lie outside Mount Vernon. They are the H. L. Mencken House, at 1524 Hollins Street in Union Square, where the locally revered writer spent much of his life; it is currently closed to the public. The Poe House, at 203 N. Amity Street, is where Poe lived briefly in the early 1830s and wrote his first horror story, "Berenice"; the house is open to the public. More easily accessible (and in a better neighborhood) the final resting place of Edgar Allan Poe, the Westminster Cemetery and Catacombs, at West Fayette and Greene Streets. Poe's monument was donated from pennies collected by Baltimore schoolchildren in the 1930s.
The preceding article was excerpted from Fodor's Virginia & Maryland. Read more...
During the past two centuries, Baltimore has been home---sometimes only briefly---to writers such as Edgar Allan Poe, H. L. Mencken, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Upton Sinclair, Gertrude Stein, Dashiell Hammett, and Russell Baker, the New York Times columnist who recounted his Baltimore years in the Pulitzer Prize--winning Growing Up and its successor, Good Times.
Perhaps the most fitting place to explore remnants of the city's literary history is the Mount Vernon neighborhood, which hosts the annual Baltimore Book Festival each September. The two-day event celebrates books, writers, publishers, and storytellers. Begin in the heart of Mount Vernon at the Washington Monument, where the hearty can climb 228 steps to catch a glimpse of the Baltimore skyline and the lovely parks, museums, and homes surrounding the memorial.
Across from the monument entrance, at the corner of East Mount Vernon Place and South Washington Place, is Mount Vernon Place Methodist Church. Built in 1873, the church sits on the site where Francis Scott Key died in 1843. A plaque on the exterior of the church notes his death. On the other side of the monument, on West Mount Vernon Place, are two important cultural institutions, the Peabody Conservatory of Music and the Peabody Library. The library has more than 250,000 books, the oldest dating to 1470. Its marble court is often called the most beautiful room in Baltimore.
At 716 North Washington Place near Madison Street is the former hotel, The Stafford, where F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife, Zelda, stayed while she was being treated for mental illness at Johns Hopkins University. Fitzgerald later lived in a town house at 1307 Park Avenue, a few blocks west of the hotel, where he finished his classic novel Tender is the Night. Today a plaque notes the former resident.
Nearly three blocks west, at 12 Madison Street, is the 19th-century home of John Pendleton Kennedy, a best-selling novelist of the 1820s whose works many believe helped invent the myth of the Old South, a world of gentility and knights without armor. A congressman and Navy secretary, Kennedy also oversaw the creation of Baltimore's Peabody Institute.
A block south of Kennedy's home is the Maryland Historical Society Museum and Library of Maryland, at 201 W. Monument Street, which contains the original manuscript of "The Star-Spangled Banner." East of the historical society at 704 Cathedral Street, H. L. Mencken, the "sage of Baltimore," lived on the third floor with his wife, Sara Haardt. The iconoclastic Mencken, one of the most influential journalists of the early to mid-20th century, was well known for his razor-sharp political writing and literary criticism. He also wrote a monumental study called The American Language.
Three other important literary sites lie outside Mount Vernon. They are the H. L. Mencken House, at 1524 Hollins Street in Union Square, where the locally revered writer spent much of his life; it is currently closed to the public. The Poe House, at 203 N. Amity Street, is where Poe lived briefly in the early 1830s and wrote his first horror story, "Berenice"; the house is open to the public. More easily accessible (and in a better neighborhood) the final resting place of Edgar Allan Poe, the Westminster Cemetery and Catacombs, at West Fayette and Greene Streets. Poe's monument was donated from pennies collected by Baltimore schoolchildren in the 1930s.
The preceding article was excerpted from Fodor's Virginia & Maryland. Read more...
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