Once you get ashore, throngs of penguins waddle across your path. They eye you nervously, then scramble over the rocks on their way to the water. Most keep their distance, but the boldest of the lot walk over for a closer look. One curious little guy even yanks at your shoelace.
Isla Magdalena is the highlight of a seven-night cruise on the Terra Australis, which sails from Chile's southernmost city of Punta Arenas. During its weeklong journey around Tierra del Fuego, the gleaming white ship takes you closer than you ever thought possible to a wide range of animals, from condors that soar above Yendegaia Bay to sea lions swimming at Garibaldi Inlet to a family of elephant seals near the Marinelli Glacier.
Southern Chile, where the peaks of the Andes seem to rise directly from the ocean, is one of the most beautiful places on earth. There are few roads through this remote region, which is why many people are taking advantage of ships like the Terra Australis. In recent months, as tourism has declined in other parts of the world, travel agents report that more and more people are inquiring about trips to this remote corner of the earth.
A sense of adventure
Terra Australis isn't the type of cruise ship on which you see the sights from a deck chair. Two or three times a day you'll motor ashore in small boats to hike through virgin forests, ride horses over wind-swept plains, or climb to the top of a ridge for an unforgettable look at a massive chunk of blue ice called the Serrano Glacier. And lectures in English and Spanish on the region's geography and history, flora and fauna are so detailed that you'll feel as if you should be taking notes.
The vessel is small -- only 55 cabins -- so that it can negotiate the narrow channels of Tierra del Fuego. The Magallanes Lounge is always packed with passengers discussing the day's adventures. Yet the ship doesn't feel cramped, as most prefer a quiet spot on the deck to admire the snowy peaks as you sail past.
Terra Australis is operated by Cruceros Australis, which plans to pop the champagne on its second ship, the Mare Australis, in late 2002. That ship will sail around Cape Horn, the tip of South America.
Pamper yourself
You feel as if you're checking into a five-star hotel when you step aboard Skorpios III, the most luxurious of the three ships operated by Cruceros Maritimos Skorpios. A crew member carries your bags to your wood-paneled cabin, where a bottle of champagne awaits. Sunlight streams in through the huge windows.
The real pampering begins in the dining room, where passengers are treated to dishes ranging from succulent king crab to a hearty seafood stew. Don't ask if the food is fresh; in the late afternoon a small fishing boat delivers the day's catch right to the boat.
Captain Constantine Kochifas orders all the water removed from his table. The only beverage that should be enjoyed with oysters, he explains, is champagne. The captain is right, of course. By the time the waiters clear away the plates, everyone is feeling giddy.
Exploring the coast
Terra Australis offers a great trip for nature lovers; the Skorpios III is perfect for those who want to get to know the culture. The day after it departs from Puerto Montt, the Skorpios III arrives at Puerto Aguirre, a fishing village along the southern coast. Small children crowd the dock, offering to take you to the hilltop. The climb is steep, but you're rewarded with views in every direction of the islands dotting the deep-blue waters.
The most interesting stop by far is at Castro, the largest town on the archipelago of Chiloé. The waterfront is lined by palafitos, rickety wooden houses balancing on stilts. Overlooking the central square is the Iglesia de San Francisco, painted eye-catching shades of yellow and orange. The church is like those built by missionaries more than two centuries ago. If you'd like to visit a few of these churches, taxi drivers will oblige.
The high point of the six-night journey is the morning you notice icebergs floating past your cabin window. You grab a windbreaker and head to the upper deck in time to catch sunlight reflecting off the San Raphael Glacier. It's a noisy beast, roaring like thunder as the sheets of ice shift. You're lucky enough to see a few huge pieces of ice calve off, causing violent waves that make you glad the boat stayed at a safe distance.
Budget travel
If you don't have a week to spare, or if your budget is tight, you can still see the Chilean coast. The Terra Australis offers cruises lasting four nights (departing from Punta Arenas) or three nights (departing from the Argentine city of Ushuaia). Skorpios I, which sails from Puerto Chacabuco, travels a slightly shorter route than the Skorpios II or Skorpios III.
Another option is the Evangelistas, operated by Navimag. The rather inelegant ferry visits the San Raphael Glacier in four days. There are six cabins aboard, but most passengers choose to sleep in reclining chairs. It's not as comfortable as the Skorpios III, but you're seeing the same sights and paying a fraction of the price.
Getting there
LanChile (www.lanchile.com) offers daily flights from Santiago to Puerto Montt, Puerto Chacabuco, and Punta Arenas.
When to go
Because of icy conditions in the winter, these ships sail only during warm months. (Remember that seasons are reversed below the equator.) Terra Australis sails from October to April. Skorpios I, Skorpios II, and Skorpios III sail from September to May. Evangelistas sails to the San Raphael glacier several times a month between October and February.
What it will cost
Three-night cruises on Terra Australis are $1,078 to $1,649 per person. Four-night cruises are $1,244 to $1,903. Weeklong journeys are $1,659 to $2,957.
Three-night cruises on Skorpios I are $430 to $650 per person, while four night cruises are $490 to $710. Six-night cruises on Skorpios II are $950 to $1,700 per person. Six-night cruises on Skorpios III are $1,260 to $2,500.
Four-night cruises on Evangelistas are $416 per person in a double room, or $178 for a reclining chair.
Information
Cruceros Australis (Av. El Bosque Norte 0440, Santiago, tel. 2/442-3110, fax 2/203-5173, www.australis.com).
Navimag (Av. El Bosque Norte 0440, Santiago, tel. 2/442-3120, fax 2/203-5025, www.navimag.cl).
Cruceros Maritimos Skorpios (Augusto Leguía Norte 118, Santiago, tel. 2/231-1030, www.skorpios.cl).
By Mark Sullivan
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