Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Montana Winter Recreation

Although Montana is generally viewed as a summer destination, winter is an attraction in its own right. The difference between the two seasons is in the way people travel. While summer travel is geared to the open road, the goal in winter is to ditch the car as soon as possible. Snow and ice take the pleasure out of exploring Montana's vast and diverse landscape, so winter travel is generally confined to a single destination. A number of attractive resorts and winter services in nearby Yellowstone National Park make Montana an increasingly popular winter destination.

The mountains of western Montana begin filling up with snow in September and October, and by December the winter season is in full swing. Because of Montana's dry climate, snow piles up as deep, dry powder -- perfect for skiing and snowmobiling. Each year, a growing number of skiers abandon the congestion and long lift lines of better-known ski areas in Colorado and Utah for the uncrowded, easygoing, and more affordable atmosphere of Montana's downhill ski areas. There are also a number of cross-country ski resorts within gliding distance of national forest and wilderness trailheads.

Downhill Skiing

Montana's downhill areas range from destination resorts to locally popular day-use areas. The 12 areas below are listed in order of size, with the largest listed first.

Daily Adult Lift Tickets:

$ = under $25; $$ = $25-35; $$$ = over $35

The Big Mountain. 8 miles north of Whitefish; 406/862-1900 or 800/858-3913 $$$

This destination resort draws heavily on the western Canadian market as well as skiers from the Pacific Northwest who arrive by Amtrak. The area has 56 marked runs, two quad chairlifts, four triple chairs, and one double chair. The resort offers a variety of lodging options, several restaurants and bars, ski shop, ski school, day care, and Nordic center.

Big Sky. In the Gallatin Canyon, 43 miles south of Bozeman on U.S. 191; 406/995-5000 or 800/548-4486 $$$

One of Montana's top destination resorts, Big Sky boasts the highest vertical drop -- 4,180 feet (1,254 m) in the nation. There are 75 runs on two mountains, one gondola, a two-car tram, three high-speed quads, three triple chairs, three double chairs, and one quad. Facilities include more than 1,000 rooms and condo units, restaurants, bars, shops, ski shop, day care, and superb cross-country skiing at nearby Lone Mountain Ranch.

Bridger Bowl. 16 miles northeast of Bozeman; 406/586-1518 or 800/548-4486 $$

Primarily a day-use area with limited lodging on the slope. Lots of powder, challenging runs, and full services in nearby Bozeman make this a popular area for serious skiers. There are 60 runs, five double chairs, and one quad chair. Limited condominium units and private home rentals, day lodge with cafeteria and bar, ski shop, and day care.

Discovery Basin. 20 miles west of Anaconda/50 miles west of Butte; 406/563-2184 or 800/332-3272 $$

Located near Georgetown Lake and the Anaconda Pintler Wilderness, this is a popular day-use area for skiers in the Butte-Anaconda area. There are 40 runs, three double chairs, and one triple chair. Facilities include a day lodge with cafeteria, ski shop, and nearby cross-country ski trails. Lodging is available at Fairmont Hot Springs, 32 miles (50 km) east, and in Anaconda and Butte.

Great Divide. 22 miles northwest of Helena; 406/449-3746 $$

Near the ghost town of Marysville, this is the capital city's neighborhood ski area. There are 60 runs and three double chairs. Facilities include a day lodge with restaurant and bar, and a ski shop. Full services in Helena.

Lost Trail Powder Mountain. 90 miles south of Missoula on U.S. 93; 800/821-3508 $

Straddling the Montana-Idaho border, this day-use area is known for its reliable snow and long season. There are 18 runs and two double chairs. Facilities include a day lodge with cafeteria and a ski shop. Limited lodging in Darby and nearby resorts; full services in Hamilton, 45 miles north (72 km), and Salmon, ID, 45 miles (72 km) south.

Red Lodge Mountain. Just outside Red Lodge, 60 miles southwest of Billings; 406/446-2610 or 800/444-8977 $$

This popular day-use area in the Beartooth Mountains has lots of intermediate slopes and great spring skiing. As Montana's easternmost ski area, it draws heavily on skiers from the upper Midwest. There are 60 runs, two quads, one triple chair, and four double chairs. Restaurant, cafeteria, a few bars, ski shop, kids' ski program, and gift shop. Full lodging, food, and services are available in nearby Red Lodge.

Marshall Mountain. 7 miles northeast of Missoula; 406/258-6000 $

A beginners' and intermediates' day-use area with 22 runs and one triple chair; night skiing. On-site are a day lodge, snack bar, and ski shop. Full services in Missoula.

Maverick Mountain. In Beaverhead National Forest, 35 miles west of Dillon; 406/834-3454 $

Located in the Pioneer Mountains, this locally popular day-use area can be rented by groups for private skiing three days a week. There are 16 trails and one double chair. Facilities include a day lodge with food and beverage service and a ski shop. Limited lodging at nearby resorts; full services in Dillon.

Montana Snowbowl. 12 miles northwest of Missoula; 406/549-9777 or 800/728-2695 $$

Home of the annual National Gelande Jump Championship. Steep slopes and deep bowls make this day-use area especially popular with advanced skiers. There are 30 runs and two double chairs. On-site are a cafeteria, saloon, ski shop, and nursery. Full lodging, food, and services are available in Missoula.

Rocky Mountain Hi. On the Rocky Mountain Front, 60 miles north

of Great Falls/30 miles west of Choteau; 406/467-3664 $$

This locally popular, family day-use area offers 25 trails and one double chair. On-site is a day lodge with cafeteria and bar, ski shop, and day care. Lodging is available in Choteau.

Showdown Ski Area. 8 miles south of Neihart and 60 miles southeast of Great Falls; 406/236-5522 or 800/433-0022 $$

Part of the Kings Hill Winter Sports complex in the Little Belt Mountains of central Montana, this popular family area draws heavily on the Great Falls market. There are 34 runs, one triple chair, and one double chair. On-site are a cafeteria, saloon, ski shop, and nursery. Fine Nordic skiing and snowmobiling nearby. Limited lodging and food are available in nearby Neihart and White Sulphur Springs (30 miles away); full services in Great Falls.

Cross-Country Skiing

Montana has several one-of-a-kind cross-country ski resorts, plus some excellent day-use Nordic centers and trail systems. Following are brief descriptions of the foremost resorts and areas:

Big Mountain Nordic Center. At Big Mountain, 8 miles north of Whitefish; 406/862-2946 or 800/858-5439

An international training and racing center for cross-country and biathlon teams. Open to the public are six miles (10 km) of groomed and tracked trails, plus instruction, rentals, and guided tours of nearby Glacier Park and other backcountry areas.

Bohart Ranch Cross Country Ski Center. 16 miles northeast of Bozeman; 406/586-9070

Adjacent to Bridger Bowl Ski Area, the center has 18 miles (30 km) of groomed and tracked trails suitable for diagonal stride skiing and skating, plus rentals, lessons, and a warming cabin. There is also a biathlon range for year-round training and competition. Full services in nearby Bozeman.

Holland Lake Lodge. In the Seeley Swan Valley, just off MT 83; 406/754-2282 or 800/648-8859

This comfortable lodge offers 15 miles (25 km) of groomed trails. Lodging runs from about $60 per night for two people in the lodge to $120 for up to four in cabins, meals extra. Weekends only.

Izaak Walton Inn. At Essex, just off U.S. 2, bet. East and West Glacier; 406/888-5700

Close to Glacier National Park and the Great Bear Wilderness, this historic railroad inn is set in what has been described by Cross Country Skier magazine as "the coziest cross-country ski area in the Rockies." More than 18 miles (30 km) of groomed and tracked trails are augmented by a network of backcountry trails. Amtrak stops at the back door. Rentals, instruction, and tours of Glacier Park are available. Packages are offered for three, five, or seven days. Reservations recommended. Trail system is open to day skiers.

Lone Mountain Ranch. 40 miles south of Bozeman/20 miles northwest of Yellowstone National Park; 406/995-4644, ext. 120

Montana's finest Nordic resort, this guest ranch is within skiing distance of the Big Sky downhill ski resort. The ranch offers 40 miles (76 km) of groomed and tracked trails for skiers and skaters, plus guided tours into Yellowstone, instruction and rentals, sleigh-ride dinners, on-the-trail gourmet lunches, and excellent food and lodging. Most trips are booked on a week-long, package basis at a per-person rate of around $1,900, double occupancy. Reservations are required. The trail system is open to day skiers.

Red Lodge Nordic Ski Area. Outside Red Lodge, 60 miles southwest of Billings; 406/446-1770

This trail system offers nine miles (15 km) of groomed trails for skiers and skaters, plus instruction, rentals, a skiathlon course, guided backcountry tours, and shuttle service to nearby Red Lodge Mountain downhill ski area. Full lodging, food, and services in town.

Sundance Lodge. Just off MT 43 between Wisdom and Wise River; 406/689-3611

This small, remote lodge in the Big Hole Valley of southwestern Montana offers 15 miles (24 km) of groomed and tracked trails, plus additional trails in the Beaverhead National Forest. Lodging is per night for two, meals extra.

Yellowstone Rendezvous Trail System. Next to Yellowstone National Park; 406/646-7701

The town of West Yellowstone maintains 15 miles (24 km) of groomed and tracked trails that are used for early-season training by the U.S. Nordic and biathlon teams. Full lodging, food, and services, plus rentals, instruction, and guided tours of the park, in town.

Norma Tirrell produced Montana's official travel guides while working for the state's department of commerce, and is the author of We Montanans. The preceding article was excerpted from Compass American Guides: Montana.

By Norma Tirrell

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