Tasty treat: Mole negro, one of Oaxaca's seven native moles (sauces) that are distinctive combinations of chocolate and fiery ground chili peppers.
Top outing: Feasting your eyes on mounds of multicolored chilies, herbs, and tropical fruits and haggling for baskets, rugs, and pottery at the Central de Abastos market.
Where to stay: At the cheerful Las Golondrinas, which blazes with color and is surrounded by lush greenery and breezy patios.
Don't leave without: Meeting the famous Aguilar sisters and starting your folk art collection with one of their unique Frida figures.
Don't miss: Enjoying a break from the hustle and bustle of the zócalo (main plaza) with a bowl of Oaxacan hot chocolate.
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