It's Maple Sugaring Time in New Hampshire!

During the fight for American independence, pouring maple sugar over flapjacks was a revolutionary act. Benjamin Franklin encouraged maple sugar as a substitute for white sugar from the West Indies, the purchase of which benefited the king of England. Processing maple syrup became a vibrant industry and remains so to this day. New Hampshire is responsible for about two percent of the world's annual production of seven million gallons.

Maple sugaring time runs from mid-March to mid-May, depending on how long the sap is running, which has a lot to do with temperature. "A good crop depends on a pressure differential in the tree that will help the flow of sap," says Bruce Bascom of Bascom Maple Farms, a syrup broker. "That means below freezing temperatures at night and warmer temperatures (from 40 to 45 degrees) during the day. After more than two nights warmer than 32 degrees, the harvest is done.

Some producers run sleigh rides up into the "sugar bush," a term for all the trees harvested, and some let kids make that most New England of delicacies, sugar on snow. Doughnuts and pickles are usually provided to clear the palate between tastings of the sweet syrups.

No matter where you go sugaring, you'll be introduced to the major steps of syrup manufacturing. These include sap gathering (in many places now done with clear tubing that runs from tree to tree and then downhill to the sugar house) and incessant boiling-it takes 50 gallons of sap to make a gallon of syrup, which means lots of boiling and, for the workers, not very much sleep for six weeks.

In the last half of March, The Rocks Christmas Tree Farm hosts the Maple Syrup Festival, at which participants get hands-on experience with the entire process, from tree identification to tapping to boiling. Many local inns have special packages that include lodging and the event. Take I-93, Exit 40, head east on Route 302 for a half-mile, and then turn right and follow the signs; 603-444-6228.

Other producers around the state include:

Christie's Maple Farm. You can visit the Maple Museum and taste syrup samples for free at this family-run operation. 246 Portland Street, Lancaster; 800-788-2188 or 603-788-4188.

Fadden's Sugar House. You don't even need to head out to the farm to sample syrup from Fadden's, which sets up a portable sugar house right downtown. Main Street, North Woodstock; 603-745-2406.

Parker's Maple Barn. Parker's boils its sap over a wood fire (most places use oil or gas burners), giving the syrup a smoky flavor. Mason Road, south of Milford off Route 101A, Mason; 800-832-2308 or 603-878-2308.

Polly's Pancake Parlor/Hildex Maple Sugar Farm. Some folks say Polly's serves the best pancakes in America. The restaurant, in business since 1938, is open daily from mid-May to mid-October and on weekends from April to mid-May and mid-October through November. Route 117, Sugar Hill; 603-823-5575.

Sugar Shack. If you can't make it up to the White Mountains, head on over to this farm near Portsmouth that's open year-round (from Wednesday to Saturday and on Sunday during sugaring season. 314 Route 4, Barrington; 800-576-2753.

By Jeff Binder