With this rediscovery of America in full swing, historic sites have become particularly popular destinations. Williamsburg, Virginia, the birthplace of the American Revolution, is riding high on this wave of renewed interest, with a 30 percent increase in tourism so far over last year. Unlike many other historic destinations, Colonial Williamsburg is administered not by the government but by a private foundation started in 1926 by John D. Rockefeller, Jr., who used his own money to preserve the site where the architects of American independence - Washington, Jefferson, Adams - planned their masterpiece.
Part History, Part Theme Park
In this tiny, almost storybook village, which comprises 301 acres filled with structures dating from the early 18th century, costumed staff members demonstrate early American trades, recite historic speeches, and act as tour guides while staying in period character (staffers feign amazement at an "optic box" when having their pictures taken). The place is part actual history and part historic theme park, but visitors leave with a grasp of the difficulties the early patriots faced and an awareness of the fierce political debate that was raging on the eve of the American Revolution.
Colonial Williamsburg also has two impressive museums, the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum and the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum, which house everything from rare portraits of a young George Washington to ceramic and silver collections and hand-carved children's toys.
The city's other main selling point - one kids are likely to respond to - has nothing to do with history at all: Busch Gardens Williamsburg, a theme park bigger than Colonial Williamsburg itself, where "hypercoasters" and stage shows complement the historic district's living history lesson. (Combination tickets allow guests to visit both the park and sights in the historic area for one price.)
Local Lodgings of Choice
You can get one step closer to history by staying the night in one of the city's original dwellings, which offer modern conveniences such as indoor plumbing but retain their Lilliputian dimensions and spartan furnishings of yesteryear. Other lodging options range from meticulously kept bed-and-breakfasts that line Richmond and Jamestown roads to budget-friendly family properties such as the Williamsburg Lodge and the Governor's Inn. But the lodging of choice remains the Williamsburg Inn, a stately, Regency-style property whose builder and original owner, John D. Rockefeller, Jr., personally oversaw every last detail.
The inn recently completed a yearlong renovation, one that followed a new trend among small older hotels: draw more guests by offering fewer, more luxurious rooms. When sitting areas and massive, marble-clad bathrooms were added to each unit during the renovation, the total number of rooms dropped by a third. Of course, with fewer rooms come higher prices, but providing the latest in luxury is something of a tradition at the Williamsburg Inn: When it opened in 1937, it was the first hotel in the world to provide air-conditioning in every guest room.
Another area hotel that is drawing attention is the Tides Inn, 45 minutes away from Williamsburg in Irvington on Carter Creek, a quiet tributary of the Rappahannock River. Like the Williamsburg Inn, the Tides ended up with fewer units after a recent renovation, but with expanded luxury accommodations, unparalleled views of the Chesapeake Bay area, and sports options ranging from a sailing school to 27 holes of golf, the emphasis here is on quality, not quantity. You can cruise the Chesapeake Bay on Miss Ann, the inn's own 126-foot yacht, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Or visit nearby Irvington, where the same small-town spirit that prevails at the Saturday morning farmer's market can be found Saturday night at the Trick Dog Café, a surprisingly hip, New York-style hot spot in rural Virginia.
Contacts
Colonial Williamsburg Visitor Center (Box 1776, Williamsburg 23187-1776, tel. 800/246-2099, www.history.org). The center is open daily 9-5.
Governor's Inn (506 N. Henry St., Williamsburg 23185, tel. 757/229-1000).
Tides Inn (480 King Carter Dr., Irvington 22480, tel. 804/438-5000, www.the-tides.com).
Trick Dog Café (4357 Irvington Rd., Irvington, tel. 804/438-1055).
Williamsburg Inn (136 E. Francis St. , Colonial Williamsburg 23187-1776, tel. 757/220-7978, www.colonialwilliamsburg.com).
Williamsburg Lodge (310 S. England St. , Colonial Williamsburg 23187-1776, tel. 757/229-1000, www.colonialwilliamsburg.com).
For more information about sights, restaurants, and hotels, plus an overview and nightlife, shopping, and travel tips, visit our Williamsburg Destination Guide.
By David Downing
David Downing, a New York-based freelance writer.
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